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[ Capsicum pubescens | Capsicum baccatum | Capsicum chinense | Capsicum frutescens ]

Chile (Capsicum frutescens L. and others)

Synonyms

pharmaceuticalFructus Capsici acer
Amharicበርበሬ, ሚጥሚጣ
Berbere, Mitmita
ApataniTero
Arabicفلفل حار, فلفل الأحمر, شطة, فليفلة حر, فلفل الأحمر
فُلْفُل أحْمَر, فُلْفُل حَار, شَطَّة
Fulful alahmar, Fulful haar, Shatta, Fulaifilah har
ArmenianԿծու Պղպեղ
Gdzoo Bghbegh, Kcu Pghpegh
Assameseভজলুক, ভোজনঠেলা, জলকীয়া, মৰিচ
Bhojolok, Bhojonthela, Jolokiya, Moris
BasqueChili, Kaiena, Pipermina
BelarusianКайенскі перац, Чырвоны перац
Kajenski perac, Chyrvony perec
Bengaliকাঁচালংকা, কাঁচা লঙ্কা, কাঁচা মরিচ, শুকনো লঁকা, শুকনা মরিচ, সবুজ মরিচ
Kancha-lanka, Kancha-lanka, Kancha-morich, Sobuj Marich (green, fresh chiles); Sukano lanka, Sukana morich (red, dried chiles)
Bodoफानलु
Fanlu
BretonPimant brout
BulgarianЧили
Chili
BurmeseNga yut thee, Nil thee
Chakma𑄟𑄧𑄢𑄨𑄌𑄴
Marich, Morich
ChineseLup-Chew
Chinese
(Cantonese)
辣椒 [laaht jìu]
Laaht jiu
Chinese
(Mandarin)
辣椒 [là jiāo]
La jiao
CroatianČili, Feferon, Kajenska paprika
CzechPálivá paprika, Pepř cayenský
DanishChili
Dhivehiމިރުސް
Mirus
Dogriमिर्च
Mirch
DutchSpaanse peper, Cayennepeper
Dzongkhaཨེ་མ་
Aema, Ema
EnglishCayenne pepper, Red pepper, Chilli, Chili
EsperantoDuonligneca kapsiko, Kajena pipro
EstonianKibe paprika, Punapipar, Tšili, Cayenne’i pipar
Farsiفلفل, دار فلفل
Felfel, Pilpil, Philphil; Dar felfel ?
FinnishChilipippuri
FrenchPoivre rouge, Piment enragé, Piment fort, Piment-oiseau, Poivre de Cayenne
GaelicGuindilla
GalicianGuindilla
GaroJalik
Georgianწიწაკა, წითელი წიწაკა
Ts’its’ak’a, Cicaka, Tsitsaka, Ts’iteli ts’its’aka
GermanRoter Pfeffer, Cayenne-Pfeffer, Chili-Pfeffer, Beißbeere
GreekΠιπέρι καγιέν, Τσίλι, Καυτερές πιπεριές
Piperi kagien, Tsili, Kafteres pipieres
Gujaratiમરચું, લાલ મરચું, લીલા મરચું
Marchum; Lal marchum (red chile), Lila marchum (green chile)
HausaTugande, Tattasai, Tatashe, Barkono
Hebrewפלפל אדום, פלפל חריף, פפריקה חריפה, צילי, צ׳ילי
פַּפְּרִיקָה חֲרִיפָה, פִּלְפֵּל אָדוֹם, פִּלפֵּל אָדוֹם, פִּלְפֵּל חֲרִיף, פִּלפֵּל חֲרִיף, צִילִי, צִ'ילִי
Paprika harifa, Papriqa charifa, Pilpel adom, Pilpel harif, Tsili
Hindiहरी मिर्च, लाल मिर्च, मिर्च
Mirch, Hari mirch (green), Lal Mirch (red)
HmarHmarcha
HungarianCsilipaprika, Igen erős apró, Cayenne bors, Cayenni bors, Macskapöcs paprika, Aranybors, Ördögbors, Chilipaprika
IcelandicChilipipar, Cayennepipar
IndonesianLombok, Cabé, Cabe
IrishCilí
ItalianPeperone, Diavoletto, Peperoncino, Pepe di Caienne, Pepe rosso piccante
Japanese唐辛子
とうがらし
トウガラシ, チリ, カイエンペッパー
Tōgarashi, Togarashi, Chiri, Kaienpeppa
Kannadaಮೆಣಸಿನ ಕಾಯಿ
Menasina kayi, Molaku
Kashmiriمرژہوانگن, مرژاوانگن
Martsa-wangan
KhasiSoh mynken
KhmerMa-tek
Korean고추, 카이엔 고추
Kochu, Gochu, Kaien gochu
Laoໝາກເຜັດ, ຂີຫມູ, ພິ້ກຂີຫນູ, ພິກ
Khi mu, Mak pet, Mak phet kunsi, Phik, Prik khi nu
LatvianČili pipari, Kajēnas pipari
LithuanianKajeno pipirai, Čili
Maithiliमिरचाई
Mirchai
MalayLada merah, Cabai, Cili
Malayalamചുവന്നമുളക്, കാന്താരി, മുളക്, പച്ചമുളക്, ഉണക്കമുളക്
Kanthari, Mulagu; Chuvanna-mulagu (red); Paccha-mulagu (green); Unakka-mulagu (Chilipulver)
MalteseBżar aħmar, Felfel
Manipuri (Meitei-Lon)মোরোক
ꯃꯣꯔꯣꯛ
Morok
Marathiहिरव्या मिरच्या, लाल मिरच्या
Lal mirchya (red), Hirvya mirchya (green)
MizoHmarcha
MongolianЧинжүү, Улаан перьц, Улаан чинжүү, Халуун чинжүү
Chinzhüü, Ulaan pjer’ts, Ulaan chinzhüü, Haluun chinzhüü
Naga (Angami)Chüsi
Naga (Ao)Mersü
Naga (Chakhesang-Chokri)Thise, Machi
Naga (Khezha)Tsüche
Naga (Lotha)Machi
Naga (Mao)Kosiisii
Naga (Rongmei)Ihansu
Naga (Tangkhul)Kasāthei
Nepaliरातो खुर्सानी, खोर्सानी
Rato Khursani, Khorsani
Newari
(Nepalbhasa)
मल्टा
Malta
Oriyaଲଙ୍କା, ଲଙ୍କମରୀଚ, ଶୁକିଲା ଲଙ୍କା, କଞ୍ଚା ଲଙ୍କା
Lanka, Lankamaricha; Sukila lanka (red); Kancha lanka (green)
OssetianЦывзы
Tsyvzy
PashtoMurgh
PolishPapryka owocowa
PortuguesePimentão, Piripíri, Pimenta de caiena
ProvençalPebrino, Pebroun
Punjabiਹਰੀ ਮਿਰਚ, ਲਾਲ ਮਿਰਚ
Lal Mirch (red); Hari Mirch (green)
RomanianArdei iute
RussianЧили, Кайенский перец, Красный перец
Chili, Kajenskij perets, Krasnij perets
SanskritMarichiphala Ujjvala
SantaliMarich
SerbianЧили, Феферон, Кајена бибер
Čili, Feferon, Kajena-biber
Sinhalaරතු මිරිස්, මිරිස්
Rathu miris, Miris
SlovakČili paprika, Kajenská paprika, Čili paprička, Feferónka, Dederón
SlovenianČili, Feferoni, Kajenski poper
SpanishChile, Guindilla, Cayena inglesa, Pimienta de Cayena, Pimienta picante, Ají
SwahiliPilipili hoho
SwedishChilipeppar
TagalogSiling labuyo, Sili
Tamilமிளகாய், வத்தல்; சிகப்பு மிளகாய், பச்சை மிளகாய்
Milagai, Vattal; Pachai milagai (green), Sigappu milagai (red)
Teluguమిరపకాయలు, మిరపకాయ
Mirapakayalu, Mirapakaya
Thaiพริกชี้ฟ้า, พริกขี้หนู, พริกแห้งผลเล็ก, พริกแดง
Prik chifa, Prik khee nu, Prik haeng pallek, Pisi hui; Prik daeng (meaning red chile, usually of high pungency)
Tibetanསི་པེན་དམར་པོ་, སི་པེན་སྔོན་པོ་
Si pan dmar po, Sipen marpo (red chile), Si pan sngon po, Sipen ngonpo (green chile)
Tigrinyaበርበረ
Berbera
Tuluಮುಂಚಿ, ಕಾಯಿಮುಂಚಿ
Munchi, Kayimunchi
TurkishAcı kırmızı biber, Toz biber
Urduمرچ, لال مرچ, ہری مرچ
Mirch; Lal mirch (red); Hari mirch (green)
UzbekGarmdori
Гармдори
VietnameseỚt
Ot
Yiddishטערקיש פֿעפֿערל, שאָרף פֿעפֿערל
Terkish feferl, Shorf feferl
Capsicum chinense: Red Savina Habanero Pepper bush
Red Savina Habanero plant with ripening fruits
Note

Almost in­numerable names exist for different chile cultivars in Latin America, especially México. Most of these cultivars belong to the species C. annuum, but infraspecific relations are subject to discussion. In this spice dictionary, most Mexican chiles have been treated under paprika. If you need more details, please refer to special literature (e. g., Miller, DeWitt, and particularly Andrews).

Used plant part

Fruits (berries but usually called pods). They may be harvested ripe or unripe. Removal of seeds and veins results in a less pungent spice. Usage of the leaves to flavour drinks is reported from India, but I have never seen that.

Plant family

Solanaceae (nightshade family).

Sensory quality

Chiles may be expected to be hot and pungent. Once accustomed to their fiery pungency, one is surprised how many subtle flavours they may show: Fruity, earthy, smoky, fresh, sweet and flowery are just some of them. The greatest variety of chile tastes is, not surprisingly, found in México (for the usage of chiles in Mexican cuisine, see paprika).

Capsicum chinese: Red Savina Habanero Peppers
Red Savina Habanero fruits
Capsicum chinense: Red Savina Habanero Hottest Chili Pepper
Until 2006, the Red Savina was regarded as the hottest chile on earth

© Kristian Podrepsek

Chile hotness is measured in Scoville units, which is originally a subjective measure based on dilution of chile extracts and organoleptic evaluation by human testers; today, chile hotness is more frequently determined by HPLC (high performance liquid chromato­graphy), whose results can loosely be correlated to traditional Scoville ratings; an approximate conversion generally accepted is that 15 Scoville units equal 1 ppm capsaicin plus capsaicinoids. The very hottest cultivars (Capsicum chinense) range around 200000 to 300000 Scoville units; the still quite fiery Thai chiles barely reach 100000; more common varieties like the jalapeño (the default hot chile for US citizens) or the Italian peperoncino generally score below 5000 Scoville units. Note that Scoville ratings conventionally refer to dried chiles; fresh chiles are milder by approximately one order of magnitude.

Whenever considering tabulated chile hotness data, it must be made clear that chiles tend to be extremely variable in their pungency and that even fruits harvested at the same time and from the same plant may differ drastically in their hotness. Moreover, since breeders have an interest in pushing their varieties as extra-hot, the date presented might be a subset of all data obtained.

Main constituents

Chiles show more or less the same aroma components as paprika, but their content in capsaicin (the amide of 3-hydroxy-2-methoxy-benzylamine with 8-methyl-6-noneneoic acid) and related compounds (collectively called capsaicinoids) is much higher (up to 1%, which equals 150000 Scoville heat units). Only true capsaicin is responsible for the pungent and fiery taste of chiles; conventional analytic methods, however, do not yield the capsaicin content, but the sum of capsaicin and capsaicinoids; therefore, capsaicin content does not automatically relate to pungency.

Dihydrocapsaicin, the most important capsaicinoid, makes up about one third of the total capsaicin & capsaicinoids fraction. Other capsicinoids (nor-dihydrocapsaicin, homo-dihydrocapsaicin, homo-capsaicin) are only found in traces. It is not clear whether they are organoleptically inert or whether they might modify the pungency and taste of the chile.

The Central American species Capsicum chinense is characterized by very high content of capsaicin, typically 2% (equals 300000 Scoville heat units), which is not reached by the other species. A proprietary cultivar, red savina habanero, was long undisputedly considered the hottest chile on earth: It was measured to breathtaking 3.7% (577000 Scoville heat units). Although this high figure could never be reproduced, the red savina pods are really extremely hot.

View onto Tezpur
Tezpur, the town where the hottest chile of the world was found

The hottest chile of the world

In August 2000, Indian scientists reported on a formerly unknown chile cultivar grown in the hills near the Central Assamese town of Tezpur which they initially classified as Capsicum frutescens var. Nagahari (although later this proved incorrect). This chile variety has been dubbed Tezpur chili, and is also sometimes errorneously referred to as Indian PC-1. Native names include Assamese naga jolokia [নাগা জলকীয়া] chile of the Nagas (the Nagas are a people inhabiting the border region between India and Burma, east of Tezpur), bih jolokia [বিহ জলকীয়া] poison chile and bhut jolokia [ভুত জলকীয়া] ghost chile (alternatively interpreted as Bhutanese chile, although I do not know whether it also grows in Bhutan), Manipuri umorok [উমোরোক, ꯎꯃꯣꯔꯣꯛ] tree chile, Bengali bombai morich [বোম্বাই মরিচ] (in Bangladesh) or naga morich [নাগা মরিচ] (just a translation of naga jolokia) and Hindi raja mirch [राजमिरंच] royal chile (calqued on the native names in Naga languages, which usually mean king’s chile, e. g., Angami Naga chüsi kedi and Tangkhul hao kasāthei).

Capsicum chinense cf. Nagahari: Naga Jolokia chili growing in Nagaland
Ripe naga jolokia pods growing in a village in Nagaland

This new chile type is reported much hotter than the Red Savina Habanero: Its heat was measured to incredible 855000 Scoville units, cor­respond­ing to 5.7% of capsaicin in the dried material (4.3% Capsaicin and 1.4% Dihydro­capsaicin; remarkably, other capsaicinoids are missing). There are plans to use this plant in the production of weapons (pepper spray) for private (anti-mugger defence) and for military (riot control) purposes. It is, however, not stated whether the value cited is typical for the variety, or just a rare exception. (Current Science, 79, 287, 2000; online [PDF])

Within a few months, the work on the Assamese mystery chile has attracted considerable criticism. The main problem is the lack of proper calibration of their HPLC apparatus; calibration is necessary for getting any absolute values. At the same time, however, the authors used a literature value for the Red Savina that can hardly be compared with their relative figures that might easily be off by a factor of two or three. The authors probably had no access to Red Savina chiles, and it is almost impossible to tell what capsaicin content their apparatus would have reported for Red Savinas. Since North East India is difficult to access by non-Indians, no authentic naga jolokia material arrived in the rest of the world before 2004 which could have provided support for the implausibly high Scoville ratings. Most chile specialists considered it impossible that a frutescens should be that hot, anyway.

Capsicum chinense: Fresh bhut jolokia (nagajolokia)
Fresh pod of naga jolokia

© Dan Prall

Capsicum chinense: Dried bih jolokia pods (বিহ জলকীয়া, >ভুট জলকীয়া, নাগা জলকীয়া)
Dried naga jolokia pods

Furthermore, there is a constant nationalistic tone in this paper that destroys the appearance of scientific objectivity (the work was financially supported by the Indian Defence Department). From my personal view, I’d like to add that in this work one paragraph of this very web page appears almost verbatim, without any attribution; this is annoying to me and sheds a poor light on the Indian scientist’s knowledge and ethics.

In spring of 2003, a new rumour spread according to which the Tezpur chile in fact belongs to Capsicum chinense, which would make the claim of extreme heat more plausible. See also this article by Dave DeWitt.

At the same time, it became clear that the variety advertised as Indian PC-1 is not identical to the famed mystery chile. Rather, the Indian PC-1 is a typical frutescens with a Scoville rating less than 100000.

In 2006, the matter became finally clear. It was established that the Assam region indeed boasts a superhot chinense chile that was previously unknown to the world. Since the pods have an elongated (yet broad-shouldered) shape deviant from the typical lantern shape, it appears that the original scientists misidentified the botanical species. There are, however, other chinense cultivars with similar pods, like the fatalii or the datil.

Seed material from Assam has been grown by a number of scientists and enthusiasts alike, and the fruits have throughout be proved extremely hot: They typically range around one Mega­scoville, in full agreement with the much-ridiculed figure published in the original paper, and thus much higher than any other tested variety. In the time since, hybrids of the naga jolokia with other chinensia have been bred and proved even higher ratings (e. g., Dorset Naga), but I hesitate to accept these artificial and perhaps short-lived products as on a par with traditional, provenly long-lasting chile cultivars.

Genetic screening showed that the naga jolokia is not a purebred chinense, but a hybrid with minor contributions of frutescens. This provides an explanation why the original scientiest classified it into the wrong species, although, morphologically, the chinense heritage is really dominating. The rather irregular capsaicinoid composition might also have in explanation in the frutescens admixture.

In the meantime, more South Asian chile cultivars have come to my knowledge, none of which is mentioned in any of my 20.th century chile literature; yet I do not know whether they have ever been subject to a HPLC for a determination of capsaicine content. Those chiles will be described in more detail later in this document, and still later I will discuss the use of these exotic chiles in the autochthonous cuisines on Sri Lanka, North East India and Nepal.

Capsicum chacoense (Argentina)
Capsicum chacoense, a wild species from Argentina
Origin

The genus Capsicum stems from South America. See paprika for details.

Unlike most other tropical spices, chiles are easy to cultivate; therefore, their cultivation and usage has spread all over the world, especially to regions with tropic climate. Main producer today is India, albeit mostly for domestic trade.

The geographical distribution of the five domesticated species across the cultivars is much different in the Old and the New World. In the Americas, there are areas of dominance for each species, while Africa and Asia show a more scattered distribution. The following table gives a coarse overview which will be discussed in more detail in later chapters.

SpeciesNew WorldOld World
Capsicum annuumCentral to Northern México (mild to hot)dominating and in many places the only available species
Capsicum frutescensSouthern México, Southern USAscattered over Africa, Europe, Asia
Capsicum chinenseSouth American tropics, CaribbeanCentral Africa, occasionally in tropical and subtropical mountains of South Asia
Capsicum baccatumWestern Souh Americararely in Europe; allegedly, also in Africa and Asia
Capsicum pubescensHigh elevations in the Andes and in Méxicorumoured to be grown in Indonesia
Wild speciesgrown in small areasno evidence
Etymology

In many European languages, the name of chiles is somehow derived from that of black pepper. Sometimes, it is just a variation (Italian peperoncino), but more often, the name for chile is that of pepper with some meaningful epithet attached. The epithet may hint at the colour (French poivre rouge, Sinhala ratu miris [රතු මිරිස්] or Hebrew pilpel adom [פלפל אדום] red pepper), the increased potency (Spanish pimienta picante and Arabic filfil har [فلفل حار] pungent pepper) or the introduction by the Spaniards (Dutch Spaanse peper Spanish pepper).

The Italian name diavoletto is a diminutive form of diavolo devil, indicating the satanic piquancy of this spice.

Capsicum chacoense: Argentinan wild chili
C. chacoense wild chile with fruits (Argentina)

www.ortagarden.com

Capsicum praetermissum
Flower of Capsicum praetermissum (Brazil)

In many Euro­pean languages, chiles are known as pepper from Cayenne, e. g., Greek piperi kagien [πιπέρι καγιέν], Latvian kajēnas pipari or Portuguese pimenta de caiena. The element Cayenne in these names is a loan from a Native American Indian language: Originally spelt cayan, it goes back to a member of the Tupi language family in which the spice was termed kyinha (also spelt quiínia). Today, Cayenne is also the name of the Capital of French Guyana, but I do not think there is a connection between those two names.

Not only European languages derive their names of chiles often from black pepper: Rather, this phenomenon is observed more or less all over the Old Worlds, where pepper has been known about two millennia before the discovery of America. For example, Arabic fulful [;فلفل] originally meant pepper (to which word it is related, anyhow). In modern Arabic, fulful is used for both black pepper and chiles, but more often for the latter; as an unambiguous term, fulful har [فلفل حار] hot pepper may be used for chile.

Similarly, in Chinese, chiles are known as la jiao [辣椒] hot pepper; in this case, however, the primary word jiao refers less to black pepper than to a native Chinese pungent spice, Sichuan pepper. Also, the Japanese name togarashi [唐辛子, とうがらし] compares chiles with another hot spice: Literally, it means Chinese mustard. Perhaps, the Japanese came to know chiles first by Chinese mediation.

Capsicum cardenasii: Ulupica chilli (Bolivia)
Ripe ulupica chile (C. cardenasii), a Bolivian wild type

In India, many names of chile have been formed from ancient names for black pepper with is native to Southern India. In Tamil, for example, black pepper is known as milagu [மிளகு] and chile bears the name milagai [மிளகாய்] pepperfruit (the element kai [காய்] (unripe) fruits also appears as second syllable in mango). The related Telugu language has miriyalu [మిరియాలు] for pepper and mirapakayalu [మిరపకాయలు] for chile. The element mirch discernible an many Northern Indian names originates from Sanskrit maricha [मरिच] black pepper, which itself is probably a Dravidian loan and thus related to the Tamil and Telugu names given above. See black pepper for more etymological details.

Since chiles are known in India only for about 5 centuries, there can be no classical Sanskrit name for them; yet there are Neosanskrit names for chile designed for use in modern Sanskrit works (e. g., scientific or medicinal literature): Ujjvala [उज्ज्वल] burning, bright, clear and marichiphala [मरिचिफल] pepper-fruit.

When Columbus found chiles on some Caribbean island, he reported the name aji (or axi) in the local Arawak (Carib) language. Today, ají is still in use in México and particularly in South America, where it is most commonly, but not exclusively, used in reference to C. baccatum. The Quechua name uchu is still in use among indigenous peoples in the Andes, but it is mostly replaced by ají in the Spanish-speaking population.

The English names chile or chilli are borrowed from Náhuatl (native Mexican), where the plant’s name chilli allegedly derived from a root meaning red. It is not related to the country name Chile, which is supposed to derived from the Quechua word meaning end, because today’s Chile marks the southern end of the Inca Empire. Another theory links the toponym to an Araucanian term depth referring to the coastal lowlands as seen from the Andes.

Capsicum cardenasii: Ulupica flower
Flower of Bolivian ulupica chile (Capsicum cardenasii)

There is con­siderable zeal in the discussion whether the spice should be called chile, chili or chilli in English. The form chilli is probably closest to the Náhuatl original, and it is the preferred form among historically minded USians and in Australia. The word chili has come to mean almost exclusively the Tex-Mex-food chili con carne in the USA, but is used for the spice in British English. The variant chilly (also the adverb of chill) has become obsolete; it bears connotations to the British Colonial Era and sometimes appears in brand names of products that go back to the first half of the 20.th century. Lastly, chile is the name of the spice in contemporary Mexican Spanish, and it is also quite popular in the USA. To make things worse, chiles are often referred to as peppers in English, which is of course a never-ending source of culinarily fatal misunderstandings.

For the botanical genus name Capsicum, see paprika; the species name frutescens is the present participle of a synthetic formation frutescere to become shrubby: Latin frutex shrub, bush and the verb fruticari sprout, furthermore Greek bryein [βρύειν] grow, thrive and possibly also German Kraut; see savory for etymologically related words. Note the inchoative suffix -sc- getting in a state of. Pubescens hairy very well describes the characteristic attribute of this species (hairy leaves), but some cultivars of C. annuum also have pubescent leaves, e. g., the Mexican serrano chile. The other species names are less motivated: Baccatum berry-shaped (see also bay) is not well chosen, as only some cultivars of this species feature globular, berry-like fruits, but others bear the usual long and finger-shaped pods. Lastly, chinense is a complete misnomer, as this chile variety has absolutely nothing to do with China. By the way, also the species name of paprika, annuum, has no factual justification.

The name bird’s eye is often used to denote any small-sized, pointed chile of high pungency, because of the similarity to an avian pupil. There is also the name bird pepper or bird chile for wild forms of chiles, whose small, very pungent fruits separate easily from the calyx and are dispersed by birds.

Selected Links

Ilkas und Ullis Kochecke: Cayennepfeffer (rezkonv.de via archive.org) Plant Cultures: Chilli Pepper Medical Spice Exhibit: Chile Pepper (via archive.org) (via archive.org) World Merchants: Chiles Floridata.com: Chiles Peppers: History and Exploitation of a Serendipitous New Crop Discovery (purdue.edu) Capsicums: Innovative Uses of an Ancient Crop (purdue.edu) Transport Information Service: Capsicum Transport Information Service: Chili peppers Sorting Capsicum names (www.plantnames.unimelb.edu.au) The Chile Pepper Institute (Paul W. Bosland) Chile Pepper Variety Database Fiery Foods (Dave DeWitt) Chiles in Stockholm: Pepper Galleries (Mats Petterson) Inferno – Chile Gallery from Finland Cross Country Photo Gallery Lynn’s Pepper Museum (via web.archive.org) rocoto.com (Joe Carrasco) Örtagårdens Plantskola: Chile peppar Reimer Seeds: Chiles Chilies (Michael Becker) Chili-Balkon (Hans-Georg Knöß) Hot Chili Peppers Homepage (chilipepper.de) Capsicum chinense Profile (fiery-foods.com) Capsicum frutescens Profile (fiery-foods.com) Capsicum pubescens Profile (fiery-foods.com) Capsicum baccatum Profile (fiery-foods.com) Information on bih jolokia [বিহ জলকীয়া] or naga jolokia [নাগা জলকীয়া] (frontalagritech.co.in) capsaholic.de: Deutschsprachiges Chili-Forum Product Information Chilli (spizes.com) Recipe: Ma po doufu [麻婆豆腐] (www.nmt.edu) Rezept: Ma po doufu [麻婆豆腐] (www.laohu.de) Recipe: Yuxiang rousi [鱼香肉丝] (Fish-fragant pork slivers) (wordpress.com) Recipe: Vegetables ‘Fishy Flavour’ (yuxiang cai [鱼香菜]) (www.innerself.com) Rezept: Fischduft-Auberginen (yuxiang qiehua [魚香茄花]) (www.laohu.de) Recipe: Eggplant with Yu-Xiang Sauce (yuxiang qiezi [鱼香茄子]) (psoup.math.wisc.edu) Recipe: Shui zhu niu rou [水煮牛肉] (Sichuan water-boiled beef) (www.juoaa.org) Rezept: Shui zhu niu rou [水煮牛肉] (In Wasser gekochtes Rindfleisch Sichuan-Art) (www.laohu.de) Rezept: Shui zhu niu rou [水煮牛肉] (Rindfleischtopf Sichuan-Art) (chefkoch.de) Recipe: La zi ji ding [辣子鸡丁] (Spicy Chicken Sichuan Style) (razzledazzlerecipes.com) Rezept von goccus.com: Shui zhu niu rou [水煮牛肉] (In Wasser gekochtes Rindfleisch) Rezept: La zi ji ding [辣子鸡丁] (Scharfes Hühnerfleisch Sichuan-Art) (cuisine.at) Recipe: Ma la zi ji [麻辣子鸡] (Peppery and Hot Chicken) (astray.com) Recipe: Nam prik phao [น้ำพริกเผา] (bigpond.com via archive.org) Recipe: Sambal ulek (cdkitchen.com) Recipe: Sambal bajak (www.astro.cf.ac.uk) Recipe: Sambal bajak (Sambal badjak) (www.indochef.com) Recipe: Harissa [هريسة] (veggietable.allinfo-about.com) Recipe: Harissa [هريسة] (recipecottage.com) Rezept: Kaji Ichim (Gajee tchim) [가지찜] (Koreanische gefüllte Auberginen) (www.webkoch.de)


Organization of this document

Capsicum frutescens: Ripe chile pod
Typical ripe frutescens pod

Due to the enormous culinary impor­tance of chiles (and, as is to be con­fessed, my affinity for them), this document is consider­ably oversized. To amelio­rate, the following dis­cussion is divided into three parts:

Cooking with Chiles

The first part explains some peculiarities of my terminology, gives a general introduction to cooking with chiles and elucidates fundamental differences in chile cooking habits of America and Asia.

Chile cultivars and usage in Latin America

In the second, I’ll describe cultivars of those four cultivated species that still mostly grow in Latin America, and I’ll explain their traditional usage. Note that Mexican cooking, which mostly relies on mild or medium-pungent C. annuum, is excluded. This section contains many pictures of specific chile cultivars.

Chile cultivars and usage in Asia and Europe

The third part is mainly devoted to the usage of chiles in Asia and is organized geographically, not by botanical species. Europe, although mainly a white spot on the global chile map, is also included as far as chile traditions exist.


[ Plant part | Family | Aroma | Chemistry | Origin | Etymology | Discussion | Bottom ]

[ Cooking with Chiles | New World | Old World ]

[ Capsicum pubescens | Capsicum baccatum | Capsicum chinense | Capsicum frutescens ]

Cooking with Chiles

The story of chiles starts several millennia ago in South America, but the details are shrouded in the mists of antiquity. The oldest archaeological evidence originates from the Andes, and it might well be that the enigmatic inhabitants of Tiahuanaco already chewed chiles whilst sitting in the shade of the Gate of the Sun. In the course of the time, a large number of different chile cultivars were bred in Central and South America, but is seems that none of these ever left the American continent before the arrival of Columbus.

When chiles were first brought to Europe by one of Columbus’ expeditions, they did not meet much interest, because black pepper (at this time first available in large quantities) seemed much more promising culinarily. Chiles were, however, welcomed by the locals in Portuguese and Spanish colonies and, within a few decades, chile became a fixed part in the daily diet of nearly all peoples in South and South East Asia. This was because other pungent spices were so much more difficult to cultivate (and therefore rather expensive, even in their countries of origin). Chiles, however, grow easily in the hot and humid climate in tropical Thailand, in the glowing hot desert of Northern India and also in the extreme cold and dryness of the Himalayas in Tibet. For a comparison of different pungent spices, see negro pepper.

According to botanical research, many or even most of all hot chiles belong to the species Capsicum annuum. Following botanical fact, I therefore ought to discuss all mild and most hot chiles in the article about Capsicum annuum and treat Latin American hot chiles separately in one or more additional articles.

Culinarily, however, it does not make much sense to discuss mild and hot species together, as their applications are wildly distinct. Moreover, for most countries there is a clear-cut distinction between mild or slightly hot on one side and medium hot to very hot types on the other side (México is as exception to this, as there are also intermediate types; Hungary is another). Thus, I reserve the term paprika for the milder types, up to the level of jalapeños (ca. 4000 Scoville heat units), even if they are commonly called chiles in other literature. This group comprises only cultivars from Capsicum annuum.

The term chiles, then, will be used only for fruits of significant pungency, above jalapeño level. This term may mean any of the five cultivated species; outside America, it will mostly also boil down to C. annuum. The other domesticated species are, as explained above, still mostly confined to Latin America; they will hardly ever produce fruits that have less than 20000 Scoville heat units.

Capsicum frutescens: Chili-flavored chocolate (Teuscher Chocolatier
Chile-flavoured chocolate is recommended only for the most determined chileheads.

Chiles may be used fresh or dried, ripe or unripe, cooked or raw; any way (that is my personal belief), they tend to make everything better. People who do not agree on this point simply suffer lack of experience and training. Some claim that chiles’ pungency hides more subtle flavours and that the fiery hotness suppresses all other tastes. I do not doubt that novices really feel this way, and that chiles really spoil a dish for them, but the argument is not directed against chile use, but against untrained taste buds. After some experience with fiery but tasteful food, most people develop the ability to discern subtle flavours behind the chiles’ heat, and actually I feel that chiles enhance and amplify the taste of other food ingredients.

Nevertheless, to the novice, a brutal burning in the mouth is certainly discouraging, and therefore, many people never try enough chiles to pass the initial barrier. Now, if you happen to get too much chiles, what is the best remedy against the fiery pain in your mouth, which reminds more of burning gasoline than anything edible? Drinks, especially when hot, sour or carbonated, must be avoided (that’s why I prefer hot tea to spicy food: It stimulates the taste buds even more). Some suggest bread against the burn, but my experience (well, my experience with my guests :-), to be precise) is best with diary products, especially yoghurt or cream.

Chile does not equal chile! There is a big difference whether chiles are employed green or red, fresh or dried, or fried or boiled. Fresh Chiles, particularly if unripe, have a biting pungency, whereas the ripe dried chiles taste more spicy and balanced-fiery. By prolonged boiling, these differences get blurred, but they must be kept in mind for all raw or short-cooked foods. Some techniques, like the Chinese method to brown chile pods in hot fat, can be realized only with dried chiles. For the lipophilic character of the pungent principle, capsaicin, the pungency is well absorbed in any kind of fat or oil; fat-free hot food, on the other side, often tends to taste unbalanced (which can often be corrected with sweet and sour flavours).

There is an important difference in the cooking styles of Central and South America compared to those of the rest of the world: In Latin America, each region has its own set of many local, traditionally grown chiles differing not only in hotness but also, and more importantly, in flavour. Each of those chiles is used for specific dishes, where it contributes both pungency and flavour. This usage reflects the fact that, on one hand, there are besides several herbs only few American spices available (allspice; since the conquista also coriander, cumin and pepper), but, on the other hand, genetic diversity in chiles gives rise to a wealth of flavours, which is even increased by special postprocessing methods (see paprika).

In Latin American cooking, it is also very common to remove the seed-bearing veins and thereby reduce the pungency of chiles. This procedure does make sense, because it enables the cook to get more chile flavour without imparting an excessive hotness — most American cuisines are spicy but not fiery.

Capsicum annuum: Kashmiri chiles
Chiles on a market in Kashmir

In Asia, how­ever, chiles have a more uniform and hardly characteristic flavour. They are commonly employed for their pungency alone, and subtleties in flavour are controlled by a host of additional spices, which are readily available in the Old World, partly due to ancient superregional trade. Removing the veins is unusual: If you want less heat, simply use fewer chiles. Occasionally, deveining can be useful to get more colour per unit of heat. Although Asian breeders have created a large number of chile locally adapted cultivars, there is not much elaborate terminology, but the different varieties are mainly distinguished by size and hotness. By using some conversion factor, almost each chile can be substituted by every other as long as attributes like ripe or dried are retained.

In West and Central Asia, up to North India and Central China, one occasionally finds chile varieties with characteristic flavour; these are, however, specific for the region, not for one particular recipe. Yet in tropical South or South East Asia, chiles tend to have a flat, only-hot taste. Consequently, cookbooks hardly mention a specific variety but just ask for, e. g., fresh red chiles, and the cook may use whatever is available. It is absolutely no sin to employ Thai chiles for Indonesian or Tamil food, whereas a Mexican mole Poblano prepared from Bolivian ají amarillo would probably terrify Mexicans and Bolivians alike.


[ Plant part | Family | Aroma | Chemistry | Origin | Etymology | Discussion | Bottom ]

[ Cooking with Chiles | New World | Old World ]

[ Capsicum pubescens | Capsicum baccatum | Capsicum chinense | Capsicum frutescens ]

Chile cultivars and usage in Latin America

Capsicum cardenasii: Ulupika flower
Ulupica flower
Capsicum cardenasii: Dried ulupicas
Dried half-ripe ulupica fruits
Capsicum cardenasii: Ripe ulupica
Ripe fruit of Capsicum cardenasii (ulupica), a wild chile of Perú and Bolivia

The genus Capsicum com­prises five cultivated and about twenty wild species, all of which stem from South America. All wild species form small fruits that usually appear in upright position on the plant and separate easily from the plant when ripe. The wild chiles have an intensive, fierce heat similar to Tabasco chiles.

Of the wild species, several are used culinarily, e. g., C. praetermissum in Brazil or C. cardenasii in Bolivia. Although much collected in the wild, there is also some backyard cultivation that can be thought of as the begin of domestication. In C. praetermissum, there is already a notable increase in fruit size due to human selection.

The species known as ulupica in Bolivia (C. cardenasii Heiser & P. G. Sm.) forms globular fruits of less that 1 cm diameter. Quite atypical for a wild chile, they are borne in pending or semi-pending position on the plant. The ulupica fruits turn bright red when ripe, but are usually harvested before that stage.

Fresh, green ulupicas serve as a table condiment in the Andean cuisine of Bolivia, allowing each diner to adjust the heat of soups and stews according to his personal preference. This variety is very hot; its heat develops rapidly in the mouth, and also vanishes quite quickly, similar to Tabasco heat. Moreover, the ulupica has an interesting, fruity, unique flavour akin to the flavour of unripe tomatoes or green tomato leaves which is also remotely similar to taste of the rocoto (C. pubescens).

Of the five cultivated species, Capsicum annuum is by far most important globally, and is the one almost exclusively grown in Northern America and Europe. This species produces both mild and pungent fruits; its botanical characteristics, and the global usage of mild to medium chiles are discussed on a separate page. This page goes on to describe the remaining four cultivated species, which are still mostly grown in Latin America. Furthermore, it will describe the global uses of hot chiles.

Capsicum pubescens Ruiz et Pavon

Capsicum pubescens: Flowering Rocoto chili (Peru)
Rocoto flower

The hardy Capsicum pubescens from the South American Andes is geographically quite limited. It was the most abundantly available chile in the Inca empire where it was known as rocot uchu broad chile, and together with kellu uchu (C. baccatum) and the potent chinchi uchu (C. chinense), it was the dominant flavouring in Incan cooking; in fact, the Incas hardly used any other flavourings.

Today, the Capsicum pubescens chile is generally termed rocoto and locoto in Perú and Bolivia, respectively, and chile manzano (apple chile) in México; a cultivar with yellow fruits is known as chile canario. The species has been put to cultivation in the highlands of Perú and Bolivia, and even today, cultivation outside that region is rare. It has been introduced to the tropical mountains in Central America (México, Honduras), and very recently cultivation started in Jawa/Indonesia as a pilot project (cabe gondol, cabe bendot, cabe Dieng); to my knowledge, it is not cultivated anywhere else except by hobbyists.

The C. pube­scens cultivars can easily be identi­fied by their purple flowers, hairy (pubes­cent) leaves and quite large apple-, pear- or egg-shaped pods with dark, almost black, seeds. Among the other cultivated chiles, purple flowers are extremely rare and essentially restricted to a few ornamental breeds of C. annuum. Black seeds are a unique feature of C. pubescens, not shared by any other wild or cultivated species.

Capsicum pubescens: Rocoto seeds
Rocoto seeds (bell pepper seed top right for comparison)
Capsicum pubescens: Locoto
Locoto pods
Capsicum pubescens: Rocotos (Chili of Peru, Bolivia)
Fresh rocoto chile pods.

Botanically, C. pubescens differs much from the other domesti­cated Capsicum species. Its small distribution, lack of different pod types and the missing wild form provide a puzzling challenge to botanists, not to speak of the enigmatic black seeds. In more recent years, a closer relation to some Bolivian wild species (C. eximium and C. cardenasii) has been confirmed. It is worth noting that there are even fertile hybrids between the wild C. cardenasii (ulupica) and the domesticated rocoto.

For the cook, the rocoto is charac­terized by thick-fleshed pods unsuited for drying, a specific flavour, and widely varying hotness. The rocoto is probably the hottest chile still large enough for stuffing with meat or cheese; an example is rocotos bellenos from the Peruvian Andes. By removing or retaining seeds and veins, the pungency can be controlled.

Capsicum pubescens: Rocoto chili, Manzano
Rocoto plant with red fruits

www.rocoto.com

Capsicum pubescens: Canariochili
Rocoto plant with yellow fruit (canario)

www.rocoto.com

Capsicum pubescens: Rocoto flower
Rocoto flower

There is con­siderable dis­agreement about the actual hotness of the rocoto. In addition to the usual variations due to climate and soil, there are probably also indi­vidual differences: Because of its unusual spectrum of capsaicinoids, some humans find rocotos extremely hot, even hotter than habaneros, while the majority would rate them only moderately hot. In South America, the rocoto is known by a couple of quite ridiculous names like levanta muertos (raising the dead) or gringo huanuchi (gringo killer).

While there is no wild form of the rocoto, all other domesti­cated domesticated chiles have closely related wild forms. The wild forms have small fruits in erect position that separate easily from the stem when ripe; they are often referred to as bird peppers, as the ripe fruits are eaten by birds. These wild forms may actually be predecessors of the domesticated forms; in some cases, however, is seems to be more plausible that the bird peppers were closely related, but not identical, to the population out of which the domesticated varieties were bred.

Capsicum baccatum L.

Capsicum baccatum var. baccatum: Bird aji
Bird ají with flower and unripe fruit
Capsicum baccatum var. pendulum: Bell-shaped aji chili (Hungary)
A European cultivar of C. baccatum (Bishop’s Crown).

Of the species Capsicum baccatum, at least two wild forms are known (var. baccatum and var. microcarpum); the cultivated form is often referred to as var. pendulum for the pendant fruits. The var. baccatum, also named bird ají, still grows wild in the Western part of South America and produces pea-sized fruits of high pungency; it is occasionally harvested in the wild, but does not have much superregional culinary importance.

In parts of South America numerous varieties of Capsicum baccatum var. pendulum are grown and often collectively termed ají in South American Spanish. West of the Andes, the ajíes are the most frequently eaten chiles, but they are also known in Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. The baccatum cultivars display a large variability of pod sizes, shapes and colours comparable to the variety in C. annuum, but there are no mild varieties. The baccatum flowers always have yellow or green spots on the petals, which is a feature not shared by any of the other cultivated capsicums.

The most common cultivar is the golden–yellow ají amarillo which is known as kellu-uchu in Quechua. In the dried form, it is referred to as cuzqueño, named after the ancient Inca town of Cuzco. The ají colorado is basically the same chile, but ripens to a bright red colour. These two ajíes are the most characteristic chiles in Peruvian and Bolivian cuisine; for example, they are used to flavour a unique Andean specialty, cuy (broiled or fried guinea pig).

Although the baccatum species is not much grown outside of South America, there is a certain type often found in the countries of the Old World: It has characteristically bell-shaped three-lobed (occasionally four-lobed) fruits which turn red when mature. In Portugal and its former East African colonies, it is known as peri peri and is often confusingly called bell pepper or bell chile in other regions; another name alluding to the form is bishop’s crown.

Capsicum baccatum var. baccatum: Ripe bird ajis
Ripe bird ajíes
Capsicum baccatum var. pendulum: Aji colorado chilli
Peruvian ají colorado

C. baccatum is cultivated since several millennia; the oldest archaeo­logical evidence is 4500 years old. Con­sequently, human breeding has resulted in a large number of dif­ferent culti­vars, most of which have charac­teristi­cally shaped pods. The most frequent types include spherical, lantern-shaped and broad finger-shaped ajíes. Pungency varies between medium and hot, but does not reach extreme hotness. In addition to their heat, the baccatum varieties have a fine flavour, which often increases after drying and then comes close to the aroma of dried fruits.

Capsicum baccatum var. pendulum: Inka Pepper
Inca chile
Capsicum baccatum var. pendulum: Ripe ajies amarillos (Peru, kellu-uchu)
Ripe Ajíes amarillos on the plant
Capsicum baccatum var. pendulum: Aji amarillo chili pepper (Peru, kellu-uchu)
The Peruvian ají amarillo chile (fresh)

Capsicum chinense Jacquin

Capsicum chinense: Fatalii pepper
Central African fatalii chiles
Capsicum chinense: Red Dominica Habanero Pepper
Ripening fruits of Red Dominica chile
Capsicum chinense: Tobago bird pepper, wild Caribbean chile
Tobago bird chile, a Caribbean wild chinense type

The famed spe­cies Capsicum chinense, sometimes incorrectly referred to as Capsicum sinense, is known for the most pungent, yet also aromatic, chiles. Wild forms are found in South America and particularly in the Caribbean, where they have probably escaped from culture. This chile species is mostly associated with the Caribbean, where today the majority of cultivars is grown. Examples include the familiar Habanero in Cuba and Yucatán, Scotch Bonnet in Jamaica, Rocotillo on the Cayman Islands, Congo Pepper on Trinidad and Bonda Man Jacques (Madame Jeanette) on Martinique. Many varieties are named for their origin, e. g., Red Dominica, Jamaican hot or Trinidad seasoning pepper. There are also chinense cultivars from adjacent areas, e. g., the Datil from Florida and the Adjuma from Suriname (also growing on the Dutch Antilles).

The chinense species apparently was first domesticated in Perú, although today the Andes region is characterized mainly by C. pubescens and C. baccatum cultivars; chinense cultivars are comparatively rare in today’s Perú, but there are still several varieties grown locally in the Peruvian tropics: The most renowned cultivar is the red and very hot Chinchi-uchu, and a group of similar yellow chiles is referred to as ají limo. The ají panca is particularly worth noting as has the full chinense flavour, but comparatively little heat and pungency. A very unusual fruit shape is shown by a cultivar called scarlet lantern, whose top-shaped, pointed fruits turn from a dark aubergine purple to bright orange when ripe.

Several chinense cultivars have been introduced to Africa by repatriated slaves (Fatalii in the Central African Republic, Gambia and Safi in West Africa, Ose Utoro in Nigeria). These African cultivars are pretty hot; especially the Fatalii chile is true to its name and enchants daring eaters with extreme heat and great flavour. These chiles play an important rôle in the fiery cuisines of Western tropical Africa.

The entire chinense species is not suitable for cultivation in the temperate climate of Europe, although plants can be grown successfully by hobbyists. Chiles in general have become a popular target for hobby gardeners in the last years in the USA, and the trend seems to have transgressed the Atlantic Ocean already. The chinense cultivars are most rewarding for hobbyists, both because their interesting flavour and great heat and because of their many different shapes and hues. As tropical plants, the chinense cultivars like hot, humid climate, but they can adapt to a drier environment remarkably well.

Capsicum chinense: Naga Jolokia Chili (currently the hottest chile of the world,  Tezpur/Assam/India
Superhot Assamese naga jolokia [নাগা জলকীয়া]
Capsicum frutescens: Umorok Chili (Imphal/Manipur), hottest chile of the world, chocolate brown pods
The superhot Manipuri umorok [উমোরোক, ꯎꯃꯣꯔꯣꯛ] may bear orange or brown pods.
Capsicum chinense: Dalle/Akbari khorsani, hot chile from Nepal
The hot akabare khorsani [अकबरे खोर्सानी] chile from Nepal
Capsicum chinense: Ney milagai, Tamil chili from Nilgiri mountains, South India
Tamil ney milagai [நெய் மிலகாய்]
Capsicum chinense: Nayimiris (Kodai milagai) chili from the Hill Country in Sri Lanka
The fiery Sri Lankan nai-miris [නයිමිරිස්]

Up to the be­gin of the 21.st century, chile literature had little to say about chinense cultivars in Asia; only a few examples from the Philippines were mentioned, where Central American plants are rather likely to show up due to contact with Spanish colonies in America. Till the year 2000, I had not heard of a single chinense species being grown in Thailand, Indonesia or India, although the climate would certainly be suitable, and it can be assumed that the pods would suite the local tastes. The Pakistani Dundicut chile, which figures prominently in Balti cooking, is often reported to be a chinense, but it is in truth a C. annuum.

Yet the recent discovery of the super-hot naga jolokia from Assam has changed this picture profoundly. So I was not too amazed when I found a red and rather habanero-like chinense pod on a market in the Nilgiri area of Southern India; it was locally known as ney milagai [நெய் மிலகாய்] which appears to mean oil chile. Also the mountain area in Sri Lanka boasts of its own chinense chile: Locally known as nayi-miris [නයිමිරිස්] snake chile, these elongated pods are wrinkled and bent; another type, known by the same name, looks more like a typical chinense but has unusually large pods of about 8 cm length. The name might refer to the wrinkled pods (looking like a coiled snake), yet more plausibly the snake poison stands metonymicaly for the high pungency of that chile cultivar. However, this does not explain the conspiciously similar names for the two chiles described in this paragraph, and I suspect some folk etymology at work here.

While these two were clearly local specialties not known country-wide, the fruits known as akabare khorsani [अकबरे खोर्सानी] or dalle khorsani [दल्ले खोर्सानी] are quite common in Nepal and traded in marktes throughout the country; they are red and rather smooth, without clear tip, looking more like a tiny bell pepper than an aggressively hot chile. The pods are valued for their high pungency and their good flavour, but they are not used for specific recipes; rather, they are eaten fresh or pickled in brine.

The most interesting of all the South Asian chinensia, however, is one commonly known as naga jolokia, which was first reported from North East India, although it is now known that the chile speads well into Bangladesh and Burma. There are many different names for this chile in the various tongues of that region, but it is not clear whether each name should be considered as a distinct cultivar; the pods look rather uniform across the entire area. As an exception, there are chocolate brown pods in Manipur, but even the Manipuri do not consider the brown type as a separate cultivar.

Finding more chinense cultivars in South Asia should not come as a big surprise. While, however, Latin American cuisines typically use specific chiles for specific recipes, Asian cooks tend to use chiles more indiscriminately, achieving flavour effects by the use of other spices. Thus, chiles tend to play a less outstanding rôle in the cuisines of South Asia, and the foods do not owe their character to a particular type of chile (if an exception to that statement is sought, Manipuri cuisine could be mentioned). A more detailled discussion of the usage of chiles in India is given below, with a separate description of the use of chinense species.

Many C. chinense species are considerably hotter than chiles from any other species — the official world record was subsequently ceded from the habanero (300000) to the red savina (650000) and in the 21.th century to the naga jolokia (1000000). Currently, the title resides with the Trinidad Moruga Scorpion, which was measured in the beginning of 2012 at an unbelievable 2 Megascoville. In contrast, no non-chinense has ever be tested hotter than 150000 Scoville heat units, and ratings above 100000 are all spurious. It is less known that there are also comparatively mild chinense cultivars e. g., ají panca and the rocotillo.

Capsicum chinense: Ripening habañero chillis (Yucatan, Cuba)
Ripening habaneros
Capsicum chinense: Caribbean Red Habanero chilli pepper
Caribbean Red with ripening fruits

© Kristian Podrepsek

Capsicum chinense: Ripening habañero chilli pepper
Ripening habanero
Capsicum chinense: Scotch bonnet bush
Scotch bonnet plant with ripe fruits
Capsicum chinense: Scotch bonnet pepper
Ripe Scotch bonnets
Capsicum chinense: Chocolate Brown Habanero chile pepper
An ornamental habanero breed called Chocolate Brown
Capsicum chinense: Ose utoro flowers (Nigeria)
Nigerian Ose utoro flowers and unripe fruits. Note the large number of flowers per node.
Capsicum chinense: Ose utoro chiles (Nigeria)
Nigerian Ose utoro plant with fruits
Capsicum chinense: Congo chile pepper?
Unknown chinense species (Congo pepper?)
Capsicum chinense: Red mushroom habanero
Red Mushroom, a habanero-type ornamental

In the past few years, many ornamental chinense cultivars have been introduced to the market, and for most of them, the heat has not yet been seriously detected, e. g., Neon Yellow, White Habanero, Chocolate or the several mushroom types. Since these varieties have been bred with emphasis on their decorative value, many of them have but poor heat and/or flavour.

Yet there is an exception: The Chocolate-types, which are a group of closely related varieties native to the Caribbean. Some of them, e. g., Chocolate Brown or Bahama Chocolate, have an excellent flavour and an aggressive heat. Very recently, some Chocolates have been subjected to HPLC and yielded spectacular Scoville ratings (400000 to 500000 SHU), which makes the Chocolate Habaneros some of the hottest chiles ever tested.

Capsicum chinense: Scarlet Lantern Habanero (Peru)
Unripe scarlet lantern fruits
Capsicum chinense: Adjuma (Aji Umba) peppers
Adjuma (falsely Ají Umba) from Suriname

Another chile of then haba­nero group that has fine fruit quality despite its ornamental look is the Peruvian Scarlet Lantern, which I found not so hot but very flavourful. There is also a new chinense breed designed to please not the eye but the palate only: Habanero Francisca. The breeders describe that chile as blisteringly hot. I don’t have any experience with this one, though.

Also C. chinense is a long-cultivated species (archaeo­logists have found a 6500 years old pod in Perú); con­sequently, human breeding has resulted in many different fruit colours (orange, red, brown) and shapes (more or less isometric lantern and squash shapes are most common, but there are also elongated and pointed cultivars). The flowers are small, greenish or white with purple or blue anthers; a single node regularly bears several flowers and even fruits, which is rare with other chiles (except C. frutescens, which is very difficult to separate by morphologic means only). A feature suited to identify C. chinense is an annular constriction on the calyx near the base, which almost all chinense cultivars have in common, but which is rarely found with C. annuum or C. frutescens.

Of the Caribbean varieties, several (especially the habanero from Yucatán) are traded in the US in fresh form; in Europe, they are much less common, although the situation has improved in recent years. Scotch bonnet type chiles may now be bought in most major European cities, either in Delicatessen shops or in Asian or African food stores. Irrespective of the exact botanical identity, all such chiles are very hot and exhibit the typical delicious, flower-like scent that makes eating them a unique experience.

Capsicum chinense: West African Gambia Habanero
Gambia from West Africa
Capsicum chinense: Habañeros (Yucatan, Cuba)
Fresh habaneros

A particular application of chinense chiles is the production of hot sauces. Chinense-based sauces benefit both from the high pungency and from the floral flavour, which make them, in the opinion of many chile connoisseurs, superior to sauces made from other chile cultivars. A typical hot chile sauce is prepared from ground chiles, vegetables (tomatoes, carrots), salt, sugar, acidifiers (vinegar or better lime juice) and often additional flavourings like onion or garlic. Even when using very hot chiles, the heat value of the finished sauce rarely exceeds 10000 – 15000 Scoville heat units. Much higher, almost insane, heat can be achieved using chile extracts or oleoresins instead of chile mash; such extract sauces may be very hot indeed, even hotter than pure chiles! The hottest products available boast of several hundred thousand Scoville heat units. Yet purists often complain that extract sauces lack much flavour and may even taste artificial when compared to the milder but more aromatic all natural sauces.

The extreme heat of the chinense cultivars is of importance in Caribbean cookery; it is commonly associated with the cuisine of Jamaica, where local chiles bear names like seven pot pepper — probably to indicate that one pod is enough to flavour seven pots of food. Jerk paste, a famous spice mixture from Jamaica, makes use of these powerful chiles (see allspice). In most parts of México, habanero-type chiles are not so common; but they play an important rôle in the Mayan cuisine of Yucatán. They are often slightly crushed and steeped in sauces to extract their flavour, but not their pungency. See annatto for an example of habaneros used in a Mayan spice mixture, recado.

The Latin American specialty ceviche, raw fish marinated in lime juice and spices, is prepared with rather mild jalapeño chiles in México, but in Perú, it is made either with powerful ají limo or with milder but still potent ají amarillo (C. baccatum) chiles.

Capsicum frutescens L.

Capsicum frutescens: Tobasco Flower
A greenish–white Tabasco flower in typical erect position
Capsicum frutescens: Melegueta chili pepper
Fresh Malagueta chile (Brazil)
Capsicum frutescens: Melagueta chili and flower
Malagueta chile fruit and flower
Capsicum frutescens: Ripening kantari chile (Kerala)
Unripe kanthari chiles
Capsicum frutescens: Tobasco chili plant
Ripe Tabasco chile pods

© Kristian Podrepsek

Capsicum frutescens: Ripening chilli pod
Ripening frutescens chile pod (unknown type)
Capsicum frutescens: Flower of kanthari chile, South India
Flower of South Indian kanthari [കാന്താരി]
Capsicum frutescens: Dried Tobasco chillis (Mexico)
Tabasco-Chiles, dried

The last and culinarily probably least important chile species is Capsicum frutescens, whose best-known cultivar is the South Mexican Tabasco chile. Other frutescens cultivars are spread over the Americas, Eurasia, Africa and the Pacific, but these chiles mostly play a minor rôle in local cuisines. A Brazilian variety called malagueta or melegueta is believed to be the wild form of this species. The malagueta chile must not be confused with the so-called melegueta pepper, which is just another name for grains of paradise.

Similar to the closely related species C. chinense and C. annuum, the cultivation site for C. frutescens is probably Southern Meso­america. Yet, the species still shows many attributes of a wild form: Its fruits are small and not fleshy, there is no variation in pod shape, and lastly the fruits drop off easily, to allow dispersal by birds.

Common fea­tures of all frutescens cultivars are their green flowers and their steeply upwards directed pedicles; also the small and pointed fruits keep their upright position until maturity. Yet, wild chinense species may look extremely similar, and considering only the fruit shape and fruit position, the so-called piquin types of C. annuum could also easily be misidentified as frutescens varieties. All frutescens cultivars are very hot, ranging typically from 100000 to 150000 Scoville units, occasionally even more. There are published Scoville ratings for the Tabasco that come close to 190000, which is the highest value I’ve ever seen for any chile that does not belong to the chinense group.

On the Indian subcontinent, I found only two clear-cut cases of frutescens cultivars: The kanthari [കാന്താരി] growing in tropical Kerala state and the Kochi miris [කොච්චි මිරිස්] from the Hill Country of Sri Lanka where similar climate prevails. Since Kochi [കൊച്ചി] is the name of the capital of Kerala, I suspect tha these two cultivars are identical.

The Tezpur chile or naga jolokia from Assam/India, which has earned much fame since August 2000, was originally claimed to be a frutescens cultivar, although it is now firmly established that it is in fact a chinense and that it is indeed hotter than any other known chile.

Interestingly, the few cultivars of C. frutescens have never played an important rôle in the kitchen, as they are pungent but have hardly any flavour. They are usually eaten, raw or pickled, as a condiment with the food, or sometimes shortly fried. The Tabasco chile may seem an exception to this rule, but remember that the unique aroma of Tabasco sauce mainly stems from the long ripening period in wooden barrels, not from the underlying chile material. Hot sauces prepared from chinense chiles are typically more aromatic than Tabasco sauce, although they lack the typical fermented tones of the latter.

Capsicum frutescens: Tabasco relative from Hawaii
Hawaiian chile
Capsicum frutescens: Melegueta chili pepper fruits
Malagueta chile pods

Capsicum frutescens: Kochi Miris flower (chili from Sri Lanka)
Flower of Kochi Miris

Capsicum frutescens: Sri Lankan Kochi Miris chili flowers
Inflorescence of Kochi Miris

Capsicum frutescens: Kochi miris chii pod from Sri Lanka
A Kochi Miris with exceptional horizontal growth

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Chile cultivars and usage in Asia and Europe

Capsicum annuum: Fresh Thai chilli peppers (Thailand)
Fresh unripe Thai chiles (prik ki nu [พริกขี้หนู]); although fairly hot, this cultivar belongs to C. annuum botanically.

In tropical climate, chiles are available ripe in any time of the year. There­fore, in the cuisines of tropical South East Asia, they are much preferred fresh. In Thailand, curry pastes (prik kaeng or prik gaeng [พริกแกง]) are ground mixtures of chiles with other fresh spices (e. g., lemon grass, galanga, fingerroot, kaffir lime leaves); see coconut for details. Many Thai recipes testify to the intense relation between Thai cuisine and chiles; yet despite its often searing heat, Thai food is also aromatic due to fresh spices and a host of fragrant herbs. Examples are gai pad krapao [ไก่ผัดกะเพรา], stir-fried chicken with chiles and basil, and laab [ลาบ], (see mint), a Northern Thai salad that owes its fiery pungency to dried red chiles.

Chile-based table condiments are almost ubiquitous in Thailand. Most tables, even in small, cheap restaurants or private households, are equipped with a set of flavourings known in Thai as kruang prung [เครื่องปรุง], often rendered in English as four flavours although the number might be larger than four. The minimum set includes white crystallized sugar, prik nam pla [พริกน้ำปลา] (fish sauce with finely chopped green chiles), prik dong [พริกดอง] or prik nam som [พริกน้ำส้ม] (chopped red chiles in vinegar) and prik phong [พริกผง] (red chile powder). The idea behind this selection is that the condiments should allow individual balancing of the four basic flavours in Thai cuisine, i. e., sweet, salty, sour and hot. The surprising thing is that the salty and sour condiments are also pretty hot, at least for European standards. Often, the set of condiments is expanded by toasted peanuts, prik siyu wan [พริกซีอิ๊วหวาน] (chopped chiles in soy sauce) or a more sophisticated sauce known as nam prik pao [น้ำพริกเผา] (fried chile sauce). The latter can be used both as a table condiment and for cooking; it is prepared from fried onions, garlic, chiles, pungent fish flavours and palm sugar. It is fiery hot, but because of the high proportion of oil, it does not taste as biting as other Thai condiments.

In Indonesia, cooking is very heterogeneous. Only in some regions, chiles are used liberally, though much less so than in Thailand: Western Sumatra (nasi padang, see also greater galangale), Bali (see Indonesian bay leaf and lesser galangale for an example of an Indonesian spice paste containing chiles) and North Sulawesi (cooking traditions of the minahasa people) are especially worth noting; see also lemon grass for a general discussion of Indonesian spice pastes. Rujak is an Indonesian fruit salad prepared with sweet palm sugar and fiery chiles; to me, this is an unforgettable culinary impression (see mango for details).

Anywhere in Indonesia, sambal, a red hot chile sauce, is provided at the table to adjust hotness level to one’s personal taste. Sambal may consist simply of mashed, salted chiles sambal ulek (spelt sambal oelek in the old Colonial Dutch spelling), but may also be fried or enhanced with trassi, the ubiquitous shrimp paste, or nuts or other spices; a popular recipe is sambal bajak. In Western Jawa, a variety of sambal is served with paracress leaves, which results in a tickling, exotic pungency. Sambal ulek is not a pure table condiment, but may also be used for cooking (e. g., for fried rice nasi goreng), although I found such use more often mentioned in Western cookbooks than I observed it actually happen in Indonesia.

Most Chinese cooking styles, as a rule of thumb, avoid too much spiciness; especially Southern Chinese (Cantonese) recipes, which are most frequently found in Chinese restaurants outside China, seem to abhor chiles at all, although they are sometimes served as a table condiment in the form of hot sauces and dips; la jiao jiang [辣椒酱] hot pepper sauce is similar to Indonesian sambal ulek, but also contains vegetable oil.

Capsicum annuum: Tien tsin 天津 chili peppers (China)
Chinese tientsin chiles are an important ingredient for Sichuan cooking.

In Central China (Sichuan [四川] and the more Eastern Hunan province [湖南]), however, chiles and garlic are very popular and used in astonishing amounts. Dried red chiles are often fried in hot oil until dark brown, the oil (usually after removal of the chiles) then being used to prepare stir-fries. A very typical example of such food is la zi ji ding [辣子鸡丁], chopped marinated chicken which is stir-fried in chile-flavoured oil. The recipe uses about 20 g of dried red chiles per 100 g of chicken meat; moreover, the browned chiles are not removed but left to serve, although not eaten. Sprinkling toasted ground Sichuan pepper over the finished stir-fry adds a different flavour to the already very spicy dish (ma la zi ji ding [麻辣子鸡丁]). See also ginger for another example of a chile-laden Chinese recipe.

The most common grade of Chinese chiles, also used in Sichuan, is mostly known as la jiao [辣椒] hot pepper in China, but in the USA often termed tien tsin. That name appears to relate to the North Eastern Chinese province Tianjin [天津] where chiles are both grown and shipped to Transpacific destinations. A related variety is the Yidu chile (yidu lajiao [益都辣椒]). Native Western Chinese chile cultivars are the facing heaven chile chao tian jiao [朝天椒], a short, slim and pretty hot chile, and seven star chile qi xing jiao [七星椒], a milder, very flavourful chile that grows in clusters of typically seven pods. Chiles from Yunnan province [云南, 雲南] have a hotter reputation than the Sichuan varieties.

All these Chinese chiles, even the cheap la jiao grade, are well suited for the dark frying described in the above; good quality chiles have an intensive colour and can be used to prepare a chile oil of deep red hue, either based on bland vegetable oil or on dark Chinese sesame oil. In either case, the crushed chile is mixed with warm, not hot, oil and macerated for a few weeks. This chile oil (hong you [红油] red oil) is a perfect last-minute condiment; it is applied dropwise before serving or individually at the table; an example is the popular appetizer hongyou chaoshou [红油抄手], which contains of steamed dumplings (Cantonese wonton [雲吞], Mandarin hundun [餛飩]) served with a tasty liquid made of soy sauce, stock, sugar and star anise and a thick layer of red chile oil.

Another method of applying chiles is the usage of hot bean paste known as doubanjiang [豆瓣酱], a fiery paste prepared from chiles, garlic, fava beans (broad beans) and soy beans by fermentation; it is most typical for Sichuan cookery. When fried in hot oil, it releases both a full-bodied, pungent flavour and an intense red–orange colour (see Sichuan pepper on that technique). Doubanjiang is a cooking ingredient and not suited for being eaten raw; thus, it must not be confused chile-based table condiments in the manner of Indonesian sambal ulek or Chinese la jiao jiang [辣椒酱].

A well-known example of Sichuan cookery is mapo doufu [麻婆豆腐], spicy minced pork with bean cheese. For this dish, the pork is stir-fried together with doubanjiang and garlic and then combined with mild, soft bean cheese. Fermented black beans (dou chi [豆豉]), toasted Sichuan pepper pods, and a hint of sesame oil provide additional flavour. Another type of Sichuan foods are yuxiang dishes. The term yu-xiang [鱼香] literally means fish spice or fish flavour (also rendered as fish-fragrant); it denotes a dark and pleasantly spicy sauce made from fried dried chiles or chile soybean paste (doubanjiang), soy sauce, garlic, ginger and other spices which acquires a distinctly sweet–sour taste by some sugar and rice vinegar added. See also ginger and orange for other Sichuan foods.

Chinese hotpot (huo guo [火锅] fire-pot, referred to as steamboat in Singapore and sometimes called Chinese fondue in the West) is a delicious way of enjoying Chinese food and is often suspected to have originated from Mongolian communal eating traditions. A large pot of boiling liquid is placed in the middle of the table, and each diner cooks selected morsels (vegetables, dumplings, sliced meats or seafood) in the broth according to personal taste. The cooking medium is usually just a mild stock prepared from meat, but the Sichuan version (si chuan huo guo [四川火锅]) alters the design by providing two different broths with complimentary flavouring: A mild one (bai tang lu [白汤鹵] white stock) made from various meats and flavoured with ginger, scallions and sometimes dries seagrass, and a beef-based hot broth (hong tang lu [红汤鹵] red stock) that has a pungent hot–and–numbing (ma la [麻辣]) flavouring due to fermented soy beans, dried chiles, doubanjiang and Sichuan pepper. This double-flavoured version of hotpot is particularly common around Chongqing [重庆] in Eastern Sichuan.

In Hunan, the food is no less spicy than in Sichuan, although the cooking style is markedly distinct. Chile is mostly used dried, also coarsely ground, or even in fresh state. Chile oil and doubanjiang are not so common, although the cuisine uses a large variety of other fermented soy products. Foods are often heavily spices with chiles and garlic; fresh herbs (coriander, perilla) are another characteristic trait. There is a marked preference for acidic flavours, but less so for sweet or sweet–sour. Smoked meats are a signature flavour of Hunan cuisine.

Although Vietnamese food is only moderately spiced, chiles are always available as optional additives at the table, either fresh or in fish sauce (nuoc mam [nước mắm]), similar to Thai custom. See, for example, lemon grass for the Vietnamese hotpot, which is eaten with spicy dips and the ubiquitous fresh herbs. This applies mostly to the South; in North Vietnam, garlic replaces chiles as condiment.

In Japan, chile (tōgarashi [唐辛子, とうがらし]) plays only a minor rôle; it is less used than in probably any other Asian country. It is almost never employed for cooking, but table condiments containing chiles are served to specific kinds of food. For example, dried chiles, either alone or in mixture with other spices (shichimi togarashi, see Sichuan pepper), are popular for spicing up soups. Another table condiment is momiji-oroshi [紅葉 下ろし, もみじ おろし], a mixture of radish (daikon [大根, だいこん]) and small amounts of red chiles, which are grated together to a fine paste. This preparation is canonical for a few dishes, for example sashimi made from the infamous fugu puffer fish [河豚, ふぐ], which contains a dangerous neurotoxin named tetrodotoxin (see wasabi for other, less exotic, types of sashimi), and for certain soups and hot-pots. On the bottom of the line, it appears that chile hotness is more or less incompatible with the subtle flavours on which Japanese cuisine in general depends (see also perilla).

Korean clay pots for the fermentation of vegetables (<I class=eg>e. g.</I>, 김치)
Korean clay pots used to produce various fermented vegetable products, e. g., kim chi

In neighbouring Korea, though, chiles are much loved. They are either used fully ripe and dried (a red powder of bright colour and full heat), or in form of a chile-flavoured hot bean paste (kochu jang or gochu jang [고추장]). Containing glutinous rice besides chiles and beans, gochu jang has a smother texture and more subtle but milder flavour than its Chinese counterpart, doubanjiang; but in the worst case, one may substitute the other for cooked foods. Kochujang is used as a flavouring for soupy stews (jjigae, tchigae [찌개]), pan-fried pork slices (cheyuk pokkum [제육볶음]), and sometimes also as a spicy dip. Besides chiles, sesame (both in form of sesame seeds and in form of dark sesame oil), garlic and ginger are Korea’s most prominent flavours. Korean cookery is, unfortunately, not much known in Europe.

The Korean term kim chi [김치] refers to pickled vegetables, which form an important part of Korean diet. Westerners most often think of kim chi as a cabbage pickle (which, indeed, is the national dish of Korea), but there are numerous other types. Recipes vary from household to household: Most popular is fermented cabbage version baechu-kimchi [배추김치] (a spicy Eastern variation of German Sauerkraut, see juniper), but other varieties derive their acidity from vinegar or are not sour at all. Second to cabbage, radish (of the type called daikon in Japan) is a popular vegetable for kim chi. Most types of kim chi are fairly hot due to generous use of hot dried chiles, fresh garlic and fresh ginger; sugar, soy sauce and, optionally, herbs or dried fish products provide additional flavour. Kim chi is often served sprinkled with dark sesame oil. It can also be used as basis for a rich soup-like stew (gimchi jjigae, kimchi tchigae [김치찌개]).

Sri Lankan cuisine uses fresh green chiles, which are taken in mind-boggling amounts for stir-fries and deep-fried lentil snacks. For curries, dried red chiles are usually preferred; three large tablespoons for one liter of curry is not unreasonable. Traveller, be forewarned (or attracted) by the colour! I have found no other place in Asia where tourists that constantly refused to eat local food than in Sri Lanka.

Capsicum annuum: Buttermilk cured chile
Crispy buttermilk chile (mor vattal [மோர் வத்தல்])
Capsicum annuum: Chile from Tamil Nadu
Tamil chile type kundu milagai vattal [குண்டு மிளகாய் வத்தல்]

Likewise, South Indian cooking is rather spicy, par­ticularly in Andhra Pradesh, where most of India’s chiles are grown; Andhra cuisine acquires are distinctive acidic note by liberal application of tamarind, which is very refreshing. A typical example is the ginger chutney allam chatni or allam pachadi [అల్లం చట్ని, అల్లం పచ్చడి] made from dried chiles, fresh ginger, tamarind and spices (fenugreek seeds, garlic) and often tomatoes; it is eaten with rice or bread, or used to spice up vegetable curries or pulses.

In neighbour­ing Tamil Nadus, curries are slightly milder, and often the flavourful conical variety kundu milagai [குண்டு மிளகாய்] is used. Dried, pointed chiles are often steeped in butter milk or joghurt with ample salt and afterwards fried till they become dark brown; these buttermik chiles (mor vattal [மோர் வத்தல்]) are often served as a crispy and quite fiery aside to Tamil meals.

Kerala, the state in the South West, basically uses similar chiles, but it has an additional chile that is unknown elsewhere: The small, pointed pods are named kanthari [കാന്താരി] and belong to the frutescens species. It has a fiery and biting pungency and is chiefly used for spicy salads and flavoured buttermilk (pulisheri [പുളിശ്ശേരീ]), while heat-loving cooks may also employ it for regular curries. A very similar chile is in use in Sri Lanka, where it is conspiciously known as Kochi miris [කොච්චි මිරිස්]; I suspect that this really means chile from Kochi, whereby an origin from the spice exporting Keralan city Kochi (formerly Cochin) [കൊച്ചി] is indicated.

Capsicum annuum: Kashmir type chiles
Dried Kashmiri chiles
Capsicum annuum: Dundicuts (Chilli peppers from Pakistan)
The dundicut chile is the traditional hot chile of Northern Pakistani cooking

In Northern India, as well as in Central Asia, chiles are most often used dried, although fresh green chiles are regionally served as a fiery garnish. They are sold whole or ground at the market and are intensively fiery, intensively coloured and intensively aromatic; for most applications, they are fried in fat (see ajwain), whereby the pun­gency gets ex­tracted and dis­tributes uni­formly in the food. In India, chiles from Kashmir (in the North­west of India) have best reputation. I have not found a similar quality in Europe. The deep red colour (not orange as the stuff available here in the West) is comparable to the best quality of Hungarian sweet paprika, as is the fragrance; but the pungency is strong and pleasant. A mixture of high-quality sweet and very hot but less aromatic products will probably do best.

The bright red Kashmiri chile features in many recipes of that region, particularily in the spicy pickles for which Kashmir is famous. An unusual example is the fermented ochar [اچار] made from leaf and root vegetables, which is close to Korean kim-chi and thus one of the few Indian foods with a strong flavour of fermentation. Another typical Kashmiri product is the spicy paste wary or vari [وری] which is sometimes available by its Hindi name kashmiri masala [कश्मीरी मसाला] in Western countries. It is a slightly oily but crumbly paste made from various ground spices that derives its red colour from dried cockscomb inflorescences. Spicy Kashmiri main courses include the braised meatballs rista [رستہ] and the red mutton stew rogan josh [روغنجش]; the latter is also popular outside of Kashmir, but is then usually prepared in a milder, Moghul-influenced style.

Capsicum chinense: Soh-mynken rakut (Sohmynken bep) extra scharfer Chili aus Nordostindien (Khasi Hills)
Fresh Khasi chiles (soh mynken rakut)
Capsicum chinense: Naga Jolokia (Bhut Jolokiya) superscharfer Chili aus Nordostindien (Tezpur/Assam)
Naga-Chile, dried and smoked

On the In­dian sub­continent, some varieties of C. chinense are known; yet they play their part mostly not in Indian cuisine, but in the cooking styles of minority peoples. Most famous of these chiles is the naga jolokia from the North East. The Nagas, a Christian people inhabiting the border region between India und Burma, use it widely for pickles and spicy pastes; it may be employed fresh, dried or even smoked (which is quite unique in Asia). Naga food may be intensively spiced or almost bland, but it is usually served together with fiery condiments to adjust the heat level individually; this practise reminds more to South East Asia than to India. Other spices than chile, garlic and ginger are rarely used.

A neighbouring hill people, the Meitei or Manipuri, have particularly strong culinary traditions associated with that chile, which is known as umorok [উমোরোক, ꯎꯃꯣꯔꯣꯛ] tree chile in the Manipuri language. It is employed fresh and raw for adding a fiery touch to salads and is popular in combination with fermented flavours as are very common in Manipuri cooking; the latter might stem from fermented soybeans (havaijar [হৱাইজার, ꯍꯋꯥꯢꯖꯥꯔ]) or fish ripened in earthenware jars (ngari [ঙারি, ꯉꯥꯔꯤ]). More rarely, umorok is cooked, for example in iromba [ইরোমবা, ꯏꯔꯣꯝꯕꯥ], a soupy or dry vegetable curry flavoured with fermented fish. Out of the short season, dried or smoked umorok is used; fresh umorok tastes best in November, and starting with January both quantity and quality decline drastically. See also chameleon plant for another Manipuri food that may contain umorok.

The Khasi, another people of the North Eastern area, also employ this hottest chile of the world. For example, it is found in tungtap, a hot paste made from dried fish, onion and chile; this condiment has a somewhat South-East Asian character and is often served with the national food jadoh, a rice dish with pork meat that featured an intensive lard flavour. Quite aptly, that particular chile is named sohmynken rakut in the Khasi tongue, which means monster chile (another common name for it is soh mynken bep).

Capsicum chinense: Akabare Achar (pickled Akabare Khorsani Chili), Nepal
Nepalese chiles pickled in brine (akabare achar [अकबरे अचार])
Capsicum chinense: Nepali chile Akabare Khorsani
The Nepali akabare khorsani [अकबरे खोर्सानी] chile

Yet another chinense chile is found in Nepal: This type, localy known as akabare khorsani, is most typical of the hill regions in medum elevation which are populated by a number of hill tribes including the Rai and the Limbu. It is rarely used for cooking, but rather eaten raw or pickled in brine. The latter form is quite efficient in conserving the specific flavour, and during ageing it acquires a scent somewhat compareable to olives, hinting at a lactic fermentation process going on.

A third chinense is the nayi-miris [නයිමිරිස්] of Sri Lanka, which is largely confined to the central highland region. It is usually not cooked but eaten raw, and occasionally used for the fiery condiment katta sambol [කට්ට සම්බෝල්] or lunumiris [ලුණු මිරිස්], a paste from raw chiles and onion, although this usage is not standard. Unlike the two previous examples, the nayi-miris is not a tribal ingredient but used by the Sinhalese majority population, if only in the highlands. The strong affection of the Sinhalese to chiles is marked by the fact that the same area also boasts of another exotic chile, the Kochi miris [කොච්චි මිරිස්], which is a frutescens and commonly grown in household gardens. The Sri Lankan Hill Country, thus,seems to be unique in South Asia by the presence of three different chile species.

Not surprisingly, chiles appear in many spice mixtures from all of Asia: Indian sambar podi (see coriander) and some versions of garam masala (see cumin) and most if not all of the baghar and tarka preparations (see onion and ajwain, repsectively). Chiles also determine the character of curry powders (see curry leaves), their Ethiopian pendent berbere (see long pepper) and Arabic mixtures (baharat, see paprika and zhoug, see coriander). Far Eastern examples include Japanese shichimi togarashi (see Sichuan pepper) and the former mentioned Thai curry pastes (see coconut). For Mexican mole sauces, see paprika.

Capsicum annuum: Suryamukhi cluster chili
Suryamukhi cluster [सूर्यमुखी] chile from India
Capsicum annuum: Large-fruited dried red chili from Bhutan
Bhutanese chiles (length ca. 8 cm)

Other spice pre­parations are made entirely or at least dominantly of chiles. Besides the formerly mentioned Far Eastern chile condi­ments (sambal ulek), one must mention their Srilankan counter­parts, also named sambol. A common pre­paration is katta sambol [කට්ට සම්බෝල්, கட்ட சம்பல்], a runny paste of freshly ground chiles and onion. This is often confused with an entire­ly dif­ferent Sri Lankan chile-based condi­ment, Sinhala umbalakada sambol [උම්බලකඩ සම්බෝල්] or Tamil masis sambal [மாசிச் சம்பல்], which consists of dried chile, dried Maldive fish and some other flavourings, in particular curry leaves.

Other chile-based table condiments are US American hot pepper sauces (more correct hot chile sauces), which typically contain vinegar or lemon juice, garlic, salt and chiles; see also long coriander about the Méxican parent sauce family, salsa). An example from Arab cooking is Tunisian harissa [هريسة], a fiery paste of dried red chiles, garlic, cumin (or caraway), coriander, olive oil and sometimes a hint of peppermint. It is often served as a table condiment for cous-cous [كوس‌كوس, كسكسى], the national food of the Atlas countries which consists of steamed semolina served with a large number of side dishes. Similar condiments from the Eastern Mediterranean are zhough [زوق] and shatta [شطة] (see coriander).

There seems to be a positive cor­rela­tion between en­viron­ment tem­perature and chile con­sumption — general­ly, chiles are more popular in hot climates. There is, though, a remark­able ex­ception to that climate rule: Tibet (much of an exception in many respects, I guess). Tibetan food is mildly seasoned, but fiery chile condi­ments are always found on the tables; a most typical recipe is churu sibeh [ཆུ་རམ་སི་པན་], chiles mixed with pungent mold-ripened blue cheese. Since it is difficult to grow ripe chiles at altitudes above 3500 m, Tibetans often use unripe green chiles, which lack aroma, but not fiery hotness. The same combination of cheese and chiles is found in neighbouring Bhutan: The national dish, himadatse [ཧི་མ་ཞད་ཚེ་] (also romanized as ema datshe or hemadatsi) is a thick soup of cheese and chiles; although recipe details vary, the cheese might be a rather fresh cow cheese or an aged and ripened variety; and the chiles might be fresh and green, but also large, dried chiles with good flavour are used. In any case, the food is spicy and rather unusual.

Most European countries do not use chiles for their traditional dishes; only the Mediterranean states and Hungary have much of a chile tradition, though food is rarely really fiery even in these countries. Consequently, there are only few particular chile cultivars in Europe: A good example is the fiery Piripíri, a Portuguese variety sold almost exclusively in pickled form (often termed piri-piri). Other hot chiles are mostly used dried, e. g., the piment d’espelette from Pays Basque in France (in Basque language ezpeletako biperra), or the South Italian peperoncino. One should also mention the so-called Hungarian cherry pepper, a remarkable compromise between nice pungency and very good flavour. This and other milder varieties are discussed under paprika.

In Central and North Europe, chiles are generally regarded as food spoilers, and traditionally people do not spend their time for growing or eating them. Things have changed, however, and chile gardening is now a fairly widespread hobby in Germany and probably other countries as well. The trend is, of course, imported from the USA, where growing chiles has become a national sport in the early nineties, particularly in the South and the West (and most in the Southwest, of course). Maybe, the increased availability of special, chiles with exciting flavour profile will revolutionize the taste preference in Europe as it already did in the USA.



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