Almost innumerable names exist for different chile cultivars in Latin America,
especially México. Most of these cultivars belong to the species
C. annuum, but infraspecific
relations are subject to discussion. In this spice dictionary, most Mexican
chiles have been treated under paprika.
If you need more details, please refer to special literature (e. g.,
Miller, DeWitt, and particularly Andrews).
Fruits (berries but usually called pods). They may be harvested ripe or
unripe.
Removal of seeds and veins results in a less pungent spice. Usage of the
leaves to flavour drinks is reported from India, but I have never seen that.
Chiles may be expected to be hot and pungent. Once accustomed to their fiery
pungency, one is surprised how many subtle flavours they may show: Fruity,
earthy, smoky, fresh, sweet and flowery are just some of them. The greatest
variety of chile tastes is, not surprisingly, found in México
(for the usage of chiles in Mexican cuisine, see
paprika).
Red Savina Habanero fruits
Until 2006, the Red Savina was regarded as the hottest chile on earth
Chile hotness is measured in Scoville units, which is originally a subjective
measure based on dilution of chile extracts and organoleptic evaluation by
human testers; today, chile hotness is more frequently determined by HPLC
(high performance liquid chromatography), whose results can loosely be
correlated to traditional Scoville ratings; an approximate conversion
generally accepted is that 15 Scoville units equal 1 ppm capsaicin
plus capsaicinoids. The very hottest cultivars
(Capsicum chinense)
range around 200000 to 300000 Scoville units; the still quite fiery Thai chiles
barely reach 100000; more common varieties like the jalapeño (the default hot chile for US citizens) or the
Italian peperoncino generally score below 5000 Scoville
units. Note that Scoville ratings conventionally refer to dried chiles; fresh
chiles are milder by approximately one order of magnitude.
Whenever considering tabulated chile hotness data, it must be made clear that
chiles tend to be extremely variable in their pungency and that even fruits
harvested at the same time and from the same plant may differ
drastically in their hotness. Moreover, since breeders have an interest
in pushing their varieties as extra-hot, the date presented might be a subset
of all data obtained.
Chiles show more or less the same aroma components as paprika, but their content in capsaicin (the amide of
3-hydroxy-2-methoxy-benzylamine with 8-methyl-6-noneneoic acid) and related
compounds (collectively called capsaicinoids) is much higher (up to 1%, which
equals 150000 Scoville heat units). Only
true capsaicin is responsible for the pungent and fiery taste of chiles;
conventional analytic methods, however, do not yield the capsaicin content,
but the sum of capsaicin and capsaicinoids; therefore, capsaicin content
does not automatically relate to pungency.
Dihydrocapsaicin, the most important capsaicinoid, makes up about one third of
the total capsaicin & capsaicinoids fraction. Other capsicinoids
(nor-dihydrocapsaicin, homo-dihydrocapsaicin, homo-capsaicin) are only found
in traces. It is not clear whether they are organoleptically inert or whether
they might modify the pungency and taste of the chile.
The Central American species Capsicum chinense is
characterized by very high content of capsaicin, typically 2% (equals 300000
Scoville heat units), which is not reached by the other species. A proprietary cultivar, red savina habanero, was
long undisputedly considered the hottest chile on earth: It was measured to
breathtaking 3.7% (577000 Scoville heat units). Although this high figure could never
be reproduced, the red savina pods are really extremely hot.
Tezpur, the town where the hottest chile of the world was found
In August 2000, Indian scientists reported on a formerly unknown chile cultivar
grown in the hills near the Central Assamese town of Tezpur which they
initially classified as Capsicum
frutescensvar. Nagahari (although later this proved incorrect).
This chile variety has been dubbed Tezpur chili, and is also
sometimes errorneously referred to as Indian PC-1.
Native names include Assamese
naga jolokia [নাগা জলকীয়া] chile of the Nagas (the Nagas are a people inhabiting the border region between India and Burma,
east of Tezpur),
bih jolokia [বিহ জলকীয়া] poison chile and
bhut jolokia [ভুত জলকীয়া] ghost chile (alternatively interpreted as Bhutanese chile, although I do not know whether it also grows in Bhutan),
Manipuri umorok [উমোরোক, ꯎꯃꯣꯔꯣꯛ] tree chile,
Bengali bombai morich [বোম্বাই মরিচ] (in Bangladesh) or
naga morich [নাগা মরিচ] (just a translation of naga jolokia)
and Hindi raja mirch [राजमिरंच] royal chile (calqued on the native names in Naga languages, which usually mean king’s chile, e. g., Angami Naga chüsi kedi and Tangkhul hao kasāthei).
Ripe naga jolokia pods growing in a village in Nagaland
This new chile type is reported much hotter than the Red Savina
Habanero: Its heat was measured to incredible 855000 Scoville units,
corresponding to 5.7% of capsaicin in the dried material (4.3% Capsaicin and
1.4% Dihydrocapsaicin; remarkably, other capsaicinoids are missing). There are
plans to use this plant in the production of weapons (pepper spray)
for private (anti-mugger defence) and for military (riot control)
purposes. It is, however, not stated whether the value
cited is typical for the variety, or just a rare exception.
(Current Science,79, 287, 2000;online[PDF])
Within a few months, the work on the Assamese mystery chile
has attracted considerable criticism. The main problem is the lack of proper
calibration of their HPLC apparatus; calibration is necessary for getting any
absolute values. At the same time, however, the authors used a literature
value for the Red Savina that can hardly be compared with their relative
figures that might easily be off by a factor of two or three. The authors
probably had no access to Red Savina chiles, and it is almost impossible to
tell what capsaicin content their apparatus would have reported for
Red Savinas. Since North East India is difficult to access by non-Indians,
no authentic naga jolokia material arrived in the rest of the world before
2004 which could have provided support for the implausibly high Scoville ratings.
Most chile specialists considered it impossible that a frutescens
should be that hot, anyway.
Furthermore, there is a constant nationalistic tone in this paper that
destroys the appearance of scientific objectivity (the work was financially
supported by the Indian Defence Department). From my personal view,
I’d like to add that in this work one paragraph of this very web page
appears almost verbatim, without any attribution; this is annoying to me and
sheds a poor light on the Indian scientist’s knowledge and ethics.
In spring of 2003, a new rumour spread according to which the Tezpur chile in
fact belongs to Capsicum
chinense, which would make the claim of extreme heat more plausible. See also
this article by Dave DeWitt.
At the same time, it became clear that the variety advertised as Indian PC-1 is not identical
to the famed mystery chile. Rather, the Indian PC-1 is a typical
frutescens
with a Scoville rating less than 100000.
In 2006, the matter became finally clear.
It was established that the Assam region indeed
boasts a superhot chinense
chile that was previously unknown to the world. Since the pods have an elongated
(yet broad-shouldered) shape deviant from the typical lantern shape, it appears
that the original scientists misidentified the botanical species. There are,
however, other chinense cultivars with similar pods, like the
fatalii or the datil.
Dried naga jolokia pods
Seed material from Assam has been grown by a number of scientists and
enthusiasts alike, and the fruits have throughout be proved extremely hot:
They typically range around one Megascoville, in full agreement with the
much-ridiculed figure published in the original paper, and thus much higher than any other tested variety.
In the time since, hybrids of the naga jolokia with other chinensia have been bred
and proved even higher ratings (e. g., Dorset Naga), but I hesitate to accept these artificial and perhaps short-lived
products as on a par with traditional, provenly long-lasting chile cultivars.
Genetic screening showed that the naga jolokia is not a purebred
chinense, but a hybrid with minor contributions of
frutescens. This provides an explanation why the
original scientiest classified it into the wrong species, although, morphologically, the chinense heritage is really dominating.
The rather irregular capsaicinoid composition might also have in explanation in the frutescens admixture.
In the meantime, more South Asian chile cultivars have come to my knowledge, none of which is mentioned in any of my 20.th century chile literature;
yet I do not know whether they have ever been subject to a HPLC for a determination of capsaicine content.
Those chiles will be described in more detail later in this document,
and still later
I will discuss the use of these exotic chiles in the autochthonous cuisines on Sri Lanka, North East India and Nepal.
The genus Capsicum stems from South America. See
paprika for details.
Unlike most other tropical spices, chiles are easy to cultivate; therefore,
their cultivation and usage has spread all over the world, especially to
regions with tropic climate. Main producer today is India, albeit mostly
for domestic trade.
The geographical distribution of the five domesticated species across the cultivars is much different
in the Old and the New World. In the Americas, there are areas of dominance for each species, while Africa
and Asia show a more scattered distribution. The following table gives a coarse overview which will be discussed
in more detail in later chapters.
In many European languages, the name of chiles is somehow derived from that of
black pepper. Sometimes, it is just a variation
(Italian peperoncino), but more often, the name for chile is
that of pepper with some meaningful epithet attached. The epithet may hint at
the colour (French poivre rouge,
Sinhala ratu miris [රතු මිරිස්] or
Hebrew pilpel adom [פלפל אדום] red pepper),
the increased potency (Spanish pimienta picante and
Arabic filfil har [فلفل حار]
pungent pepper) or the introduction by the Spaniards
(Dutch Spaanse peperSpanish pepper).
The Italian name diavoletto is a diminutive form of diavolodevil, indicating the satanic piquancy of this
spice.
In many European languages, chiles are known as pepper from Cayenne, e. g.,
Greek piperi kagien [πιπέρι καγιέν],
Latvian kajēnas pipari or Portuguese
pimenta de caiena. The element Cayenne in these
names is a loan from a Native American Indian language:
Originally spelt cayan, it goes back to a member of
the Tupi language family in which the spice was termed kyinha
(also spelt quiínia). Today,
Cayenne is also the name of the Capital of French Guyana, but I do not
think there is a connection between those two names.
Not only European languages derive their names of chiles often from black
pepper: Rather, this phenomenon is observed more or less all over the
Old Worlds, where pepper has been known about two millennia before
the discovery of America. For example, Arabic fulful [;فلفل]
originally meant pepper (to which word it is related, anyhow). In
modern Arabic, fulful is used for both
black pepper and chiles, but more
often for the latter; as an unambiguous term,
fulful har [فلفل حار] hot pepper
may be used for chile.
Similarly, in Chinese, chiles are known as
la jiao [辣椒] hot pepper;
in this case, however, the primary word jiao
refers less to black pepper than to a native Chinese pungent spice,
Sichuan pepper. Also, the Japanese name
togarashi [唐辛子, とうがらし]
compares chiles with another hot spice: Literally, it means
Chinese mustard. Perhaps, the Japanese
came to know chiles first by Chinese mediation.
Ripe ulupica chile (C. cardenasii), a Bolivian wild type
In India, many names of chile have been formed from ancient names for
black pepper with is native to Southern India.
In Tamil, for example, black pepper is known as milagu [மிளகு]
and chile bears the name milagai [மிளகாய்] pepperfruit (the
element kai [காய்] (unripe) fruits also appears as second
syllable in mango). The related Telugu
language has miriyalu [మిరియాలు] for
pepper and mirapakayalu [మిరపకాయలు]
for chile. The element mirch discernible an many Northern
Indian names originates from Sanskrit maricha [मरिच] black pepper,
which itself is probably a Dravidian loan and thus related to the Tamil and
Telugu names given above. See black pepper
for more etymological details.
Since chiles are known in India only for about 5
centuries, there can be no classical Sanskrit name for them; yet
there are Neosanskrit names for chile designed for use
in modern Sanskrit works (e. g., scientific or medicinal literature):
Ujjvala [उज्ज्वल] burning, bright, clear
and marichiphala [मरिचिफल] pepper-fruit.
When Columbus found chiles on some Caribbean island, he reported the name
aji (or axi) in the local Arawak
(Carib) language. Today, ají is still in use in
México and particularly in South America, where it is most
commonly, but not exclusively, used in reference to
C. baccatum. The
Quechua name uchu is still in use among indigenous
peoples in the Andes, but it is mostly replaced by ají in the Spanish-speaking population.
The English nameschile or chilli are
borrowed from Náhuatl (native Mexican), where the plant’s name
chilli allegedly derived from a root meaning red.
It is not related to the country name Chile, which is supposed to
derived from the Quechua word meaning end, because today’s Chile
marks the southern end of the Inca Empire. Another theory links the
toponym to an Araucanian term depth referring to the coastal
lowlands as seen from the Andes.
Flower of Bolivian ulupica chile (Capsicum cardenasii)
There is considerable zeal in the discussion whether the spice should be
called chile, chili or chilli in English. The form
chilli is probably closest to the Náhuatl original, and it is
the preferred form among historically minded USians and in Australia. The
word chili has come to mean almost exclusively the Tex-Mex-food
chili con carne in the USA, but is used for the spice in
British English. The variant chilly (also the adverb of chill)
has become obsolete; it bears
connotations to the British Colonial Era and sometimes appears in
brand names of products that go back to the first half of the 20.th century.
Lastly, chile is the name of the spice in contemporary Mexican
Spanish, and it is also quite popular in the USA.
To make things worse, chiles are often referred to as peppers in
English, which is of course a never-ending source of culinarily fatal
misunderstandings.
For the botanical genus name Capsicum, see paprika; the species name frutescens
is the present participle of a synthetic formation frutescereto become shrubby: Latin frutexshrub, bush and the verb
fruticarisprout, furthermore Greek
bryein [βρύειν] grow, thrive
and possibly also German Kraut; see savory
for etymologically related words. Note the inchoative suffix -sc-getting
in a state of. Pubescenshairy very well describes the
characteristic attribute of this species (hairy leaves), but some cultivars
of C. annuum also have pubescent leaves, e. g., the Mexican serrano chile.
The other species names are less motivated:
Baccatumberry-shaped (see also bay) is not well chosen, as only some
cultivars of this species feature globular, berry-like fruits, but others
bear the usual long and finger-shaped pods. Lastly, chinense
is a complete misnomer, as this chile variety has absolutely nothing to do
with China. By the way, also the species name of paprika, annuum, has no factual
justification.
The name bird’s eye is often used to denote any small-sized, pointed
chile of high pungency, because of the similarity to an avian pupil. There is
also the name bird pepper or bird chile for wild forms of chiles,
whose small, very pungent fruits separate easily from the calyx and are
dispersed by birds.
Due to the enormous culinary importance of chiles (and, as is to be confessed,
my affinity for them), this document is considerably oversized. To ameliorate,
the following discussion is divided into three parts:
The first part explains some peculiarities of my terminology,
gives a general introduction to cooking with chiles and elucidates fundamental
differences in chile cooking habits of America and Asia.
In the second, I’ll describe cultivars of those four cultivated species
that still mostly grow in Latin America, and I’ll explain their traditional
usage. Note that Mexican cooking, which mostly relies on mild or
medium-pungent C. annuum, is
excluded. This section contains many pictures of specific chile cultivars.
The third part is mainly devoted to the usage of chiles in Asia and
is organized geographically, not by botanical species. Europe, although
mainly a white spot on the global chile map, is also included as far as chile
traditions exist.
The story of chiles starts several millennia ago in South America, but the
details are shrouded in the mists of antiquity. The oldest archaeological
evidence originates from the Andes, and it might well be that the enigmatic
inhabitants of Tiahuanaco already chewed chiles whilst sitting in the shade of
the Gate of the Sun. In the course of the time, a large number of different
chile cultivars were bred in Central and South America, but is seems that none
of these ever left the American continent before the arrival of Columbus.
When chiles were first brought to Europe by one of Columbus’
expeditions, they did not meet much interest, because black pepper (at this time first available in large
quantities) seemed much more promising culinarily. Chiles were, however,
welcomed by the locals in Portuguese and Spanish colonies and, within a few
decades, chile became a fixed part in the daily diet of nearly all peoples in
South and South East Asia. This was because other pungent spices were so much
more difficult to cultivate (and therefore rather expensive, even in their
countries of origin). Chiles, however, grow easily in the hot and humid climate
in tropical Thailand, in the glowing hot desert of Northern India and also in
the extreme cold and dryness of the Himalayas in Tibet. For a comparison of
different pungent spices, see negro pepper.
According to botanical research, many or even most of all hot chiles
belong to the species Capsicum annuum. Following botanical
fact, I therefore ought to discuss all mild and most hot chiles in the article
about Capsicum annuum and treat
Latin American hot chiles separately in one or more additional articles.
Culinarily, however,
it does not make much sense to discuss mild and hot species together,
as their applications are wildly distinct. Moreover, for most countries
there is a clear-cut distinction between mild or slightly hot on one side
and medium hot to very hot types on the other side (México is
as exception to this, as there are also intermediate types; Hungary is
another). Thus, I reserve the term paprika for the milder types,
up to the level of jalapeños (ca. 4000 Scoville
heat units), even if they are commonly called chiles in other
literature. This group comprises only cultivars from
Capsicum annuum.
The term chiles, then, will be used only for fruits of significant
pungency, above jalapeño level. This term may mean
any of the five cultivated species; outside America, it will mostly also
boil down to C. annuum. The other domesticated species
are, as explained above, still mostly confined to Latin America; they
will hardly ever produce fruits that have less than 20000 Scoville heat units.
Chile-flavoured chocolate is recommended only for the most determined chileheads.
Chiles may be used fresh or dried, ripe or unripe, cooked or raw; any way
(that is my personal belief), they tend to make everything better. People who
do not agree on this point simply suffer lack of experience and training. Some
claim that chiles’ pungency hides more subtle flavours and that the fiery
hotness suppresses all other tastes. I do not doubt that novices really feel
this way, and that chiles really spoil a dish for them, but the argument is not
directed against chile use, but against untrained taste buds. After some
experience with fiery but tasteful food, most people develop the ability to
discern subtle flavours behind the chiles’ heat, and actually I feel that
chiles enhance and amplify the taste of other food
ingredients.
Nevertheless, to the novice, a brutal burning in the mouth is certainly
discouraging, and therefore, many people never try enough chiles to pass the
initial barrier. Now, if you happen to get too much chiles, what is the
best remedy against the fiery pain in your mouth, which reminds more of burning
gasoline than anything edible? Drinks, especially when hot, sour or carbonated,
must be avoided (that’s why I prefer hot tea to spicy food: It
stimulates the taste buds even more). Some suggest bread against the burn, but
my experience (well, my experience with my guests :-), to be precise) is best
with diary products, especially yoghurt or cream.
Chile does not equal chile! There is a big difference whether chiles are
employed green or red, fresh or dried, or fried or boiled. Fresh Chiles,
particularly if unripe, have a biting pungency, whereas the ripe dried chiles
taste more spicy and balanced-fiery. By prolonged boiling, these differences
get blurred, but they must be kept in mind for all raw or short-cooked foods.
Some techniques, like the Chinese method to brown chile pods in hot fat, can be
realized only with dried chiles. For the lipophilic character of the pungent
principle, capsaicin, the pungency is well absorbed in any kind of fat or oil;
fat-free hot food, on the other side, often tends to taste unbalanced (which
can often be corrected with sweet and sour flavours).
There is an important difference in the cooking styles of Central and South
America compared to those of the rest of the world: In Latin America, each
region has its own set of many local, traditionally grown chiles
differing not only in hotness but also, and more importantly, in flavour.
Each of those chiles is used for specific dishes, where it contributes both
pungency and flavour. This usage reflects the fact that,
on one hand, there are besides several herbs only few American spices available
(allspice; since the conquista also coriander,
cumin and pepper),
but, on the other hand, genetic diversity in chiles gives rise to a wealth of
flavours, which is even increased by special postprocessing methods (see
paprika).
In Latin American cooking, it is also very common to remove the seed-bearing
veins and thereby reduce the pungency of chiles. This procedure does make
sense, because it enables the cook to get more chile flavour without imparting
an excessive hotness — most American cuisines are spicy but not
fiery.
Chiles on a market in Kashmir
In Asia, however, chiles have a more uniform and hardly characteristic flavour.
They are commonly employed for their pungency alone, and subtleties in flavour
are controlled by a host of additional spices, which are readily available in
the Old World, partly due to ancient superregional trade. Removing the veins is
unusual: If you want less heat, simply use fewer chiles. Occasionally, deveining
can be useful to get more colour per unit of heat. Although Asian breeders
have created a large number of chile locally adapted cultivars,
there is not much elaborate terminology, but the different varieties
are mainly distinguished by size and hotness. By using some conversion
factor, almost each chile can be substituted by every other as long
as attributes like ripe or dried are retained.
In West and Central Asia, up to North India and Central China, one occasionally
finds chile varieties with characteristic flavour; these are, however, specific
for the region, not for one particular recipe. Yet in tropical South or South
East Asia, chiles tend to have a flat, only-hot taste. Consequently, cookbooks
hardly mention a specific variety but just ask for, e. g., fresh red chiles,
and the cook may use whatever is available. It is absolutely no sin to employ
Thai chiles for Indonesian or Tamil food, whereas a Mexican mole Poblano prepared from Bolivian ají
amarillo would probably terrify Mexicans and Bolivians alike.
Ripe fruit of Capsicum cardenasii (ulupica),
a wild chile of Perú and Bolivia
The genus Capsicum comprises five cultivated and about twenty
wild species, all of which stem from South America. All wild species form
small fruits that usually appear in upright position on the plant and separate
easily from the plant when ripe. The wild chiles
have an intensive, fierce heat similar to Tabasco chiles.
Of the wild species, several are used culinarily, e. g., C.
praetermissum in Brazil or C. cardenasii in Bolivia.
Although much collected in the wild, there is also some backyard cultivation
that can be thought of as the begin of domestication. In C.
praetermissum, there is already a notable increase in fruit size due to
human selection.
The species known as
ulupica in Bolivia (C.
cardenasiiHeiser & P. G. Sm.) forms globular fruits of less that 1 cm diameter.
Quite atypical for a wild chile, they are borne in pending or semi-pending
position on the plant. The ulupica fruits turn bright
red when ripe, but are usually harvested before that stage.
Fresh, green ulupicas serve as a table condiment in the
Andean cuisine of Bolivia, allowing each diner to adjust the heat of
soups and stews according to his personal preference. This variety is very
hot; its heat develops rapidly in the mouth, and also vanishes quite quickly,
similar to Tabasco heat. Moreover, the ulupica
has an interesting, fruity, unique flavour akin to the flavour of unripe
tomatoes or green tomato leaves which is also remotely similar
to taste of the rocoto (C. pubescens).
Of the five cultivated species, Capsicum
annuum is by far most important globally, and is the one almost
exclusively grown in Northern America and Europe. This species produces
both mild and pungent fruits; its botanical characteristics, and the global
usage of mild to medium chiles are discussed on a separate page. This page
goes on to describe the remaining four cultivated species, which are still
mostly grown in Latin America. Furthermore, it will describe the global uses of
hot chiles.
The hardy Capsicum pubescens from the South American Andes is
geographically quite
limited. It was the most abundantly available chile in the Inca empire
where it was known as rocot uchubroad chile, and
together with kellu uchu (C. baccatum) and the potent
chinchi uchu (C. chinense), it was the dominant
flavouring in Incan cooking; in fact, the Incas hardly used any
other flavourings.
Today, the Capsicum pubescens chile is generally
termed rocoto and locoto
in Perú and Bolivia, respectively,
and chile manzano (apple chile) in México; a cultivar
with yellow fruits is known as chile canario.
The species has been put to cultivation in the highlands of Perú
and Bolivia, and even today, cultivation outside that region is rare.
It has been introduced to the tropical mountains in Central America
(México, Honduras), and very recently cultivation started in
Jawa/Indonesia as a pilot project (cabe gondol,
cabe bendot, cabe Dieng); to my
knowledge, it is not cultivated anywhere else except by hobbyists.
Locoto pods
Rocoto seeds (bell pepper seed top right for comparison)
The C. pubescens cultivars
can easily be identified by their purple flowers, hairy (pubescent)
leaves and quite large apple-, pear- or egg-shaped pods with dark, almost
black, seeds. Among the other cultivated chiles, purple flowers are
extremely rare and essentially restricted to a few ornamental breeds
of C. annuum. Black seeds
are a unique feature of C. pubescens, not shared by
any other wild or cultivated species.
Rocoto seeds (bell pepper seed top right for comparison)
Locoto pods
Fresh rocoto chile pods.
Botanically, C. pubescens differs much from the other
domesticated Capsicum species. Its small distribution,
lack of different pod types and the missing wild form provide a puzzling
challenge to botanists, not to speak of the enigmatic black seeds. In more
recent years, a closer relation to some Bolivian wild species
(C. eximium and C. cardenasii)
has been confirmed. It is worth noting that there are even fertile
hybrids between the wild C. cardenasii
(ulupica) and the domesticated
rocoto.
Fresh rocoto chile pods.
For the cook, the rocoto is characterized by
thick-fleshed pods unsuited for drying, a specific flavour, and widely
varying hotness. The rocoto is probably the hottest
chile still large enough for stuffing with meat or cheese; an
example is rocotos bellenos from the Peruvian Andes.
By removing or retaining seeds and veins, the pungency can be controlled.
There is considerable disagreement about the actual hotness of the
rocoto.
In addition to the usual variations due to climate and soil, there are
probably also individual differences: Because of its unusual spectrum of
capsaicinoids, some humans find rocotos extremely
hot, even hotter than habaneros, while the majority
would rate them only moderately hot. In South America, the
rocoto is known by a couple of quite ridiculous
names like levanta muertos (raising the dead)
or gringo huanuchi (gringo killer).
While there is no wild form of the rocoto, all other domesticated
domesticated chiles have closely related wild forms. The wild forms have
small fruits in erect position that separate easily from the stem when ripe;
they are often referred to as bird peppers, as the ripe fruits are
eaten by birds. These wild forms may
actually be predecessors of the domesticated forms; in some cases, however,
is seems to be more plausible that the bird peppers were closely
related, but not identical, to the population out of which the domesticated
varieties were bred.
A European cultivar of C. baccatum (Bishop’s Crown).
Of the species Capsicum
baccatum, at least two wild forms are known (var. baccatum
and var. microcarpum); the cultivated form is often referred
to as var. pendulum for the pendant fruits. The
var. baccatum, also named bird ají, still
grows wild in the Western part of South America and produces pea-sized fruits
of high pungency; it is occasionally harvested in the wild, but does
not have much superregional culinary importance.
In parts of South America
numerous varieties of Capsicum baccatum var. pendulum are grown and often collectively termed
ají in South American Spanish. West of the Andes,
the ajíes are the most frequently eaten chiles,
but they are also known in Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina.
The baccatum cultivars
display a large variability of pod sizes, shapes and colours comparable to the
variety in C. annuum, but there are no
mild varieties.
The baccatum flowers always have yellow or green spots on the
petals, which is a feature not shared by any of the other cultivated capsicums.
The most common cultivar is the golden–yellow ají amarillo
which is known as kellu-uchu in Quechua. In the dried form, it
is referred to as cuzqueño, named after the ancient
Inca town of Cuzco. The ají colorado is basically the
same chile, but ripens to a bright red colour. These two
ajíes are the most characteristic chiles in
Peruvian and Bolivian cuisine; for example, they are used to flavour a
unique Andean specialty, cuy (broiled or fried guinea pig).
Although the baccatum species is not much grown outside of
South America, there is a certain type often found in the countries of the Old
World: It has characteristically bell-shaped three-lobed (occasionally
four-lobed) fruits which turn red when mature. In Portugal
and its former East African colonies, it is known as peri
peri and is often confusingly called bell pepper or
bell chile in other regions; another name alluding to the form
is bishop’s crown.
Ripe bird ajíes
Peruvian ají colorado
C. baccatum is cultivated since several millennia; the
oldest archaeological evidence is 4500 years old.
Consequently, human breeding has resulted in a large number of different
cultivars, most of which have characteristically shaped pods. The most frequent
types include spherical, lantern-shaped and broad finger-shaped
ajíes. Pungency varies between medium and hot,
but does not reach extreme hotness. In addition to their heat, the
baccatum varieties have a fine flavour, which often increases
after drying and then comes close to the aroma of dried fruits.
The famed species Capsicum chinense, sometimes incorrectly
referred to as Capsicum sinense, is known
for the most pungent, yet also aromatic, chiles. Wild forms are found in South
America and particularly in the Caribbean, where they have probably escaped
from culture. This chile species is mostly associated with the
Caribbean, where today the majority of cultivars is grown. Examples include
the familiar Habanero in Cuba and Yucatán,
Scotch Bonnet in Jamaica, Rocotillo on the Cayman
Islands, Congo Pepper on Trinidad and Bonda Man Jacques
(Madame Jeanette) on Martinique.
Many varieties are named for their origin, e. g.,
Red Dominica, Jamaican hot or Trinidad seasoning pepper.
There are also chinense cultivars from
adjacent areas, e. g., the Datil from Florida and the
Adjuma from Suriname (also growing on the Dutch Antilles).
The chinense species apparently was first domesticated in
Perú, although today the Andes region is characterized mainly by
C. pubescens
and C. baccatum
cultivars; chinense cultivars are comparatively rare in
today’s Perú, but there are still several varieties grown locally
in the Peruvian tropics: The most renowned cultivar is the red and very hot
Chinchi-uchu, and a group of similar yellow chiles is referred
to as ají limo. The ají
panca is particularly worth noting as has the full chinense
flavour, but comparatively little heat and pungency. A very
unusual fruit shape is shown by a cultivar called scarlet lantern, whose
top-shaped, pointed fruits turn from a dark aubergine purple to bright
orange when ripe.
Several chinense cultivars
have been introduced to Africa by repatriated slaves
(Fatalii in the Central African Republic, Gambia and
Safi in West Africa, Ose Utoro in Nigeria). These African
cultivars are pretty hot; especially the Fatalii chile is true to its
name and enchants daring eaters with extreme heat and great flavour. These
chiles play an important rôle in the fiery cuisines of Western tropical
Africa.
The entire chinense species is not
suitable for cultivation in the temperate climate of Europe,
although plants can be
grown successfully by hobbyists. Chiles in general have become a popular
target for hobby gardeners in the last years in the USA, and the trend seems
to have transgressed the Atlantic Ocean already. The chinense
cultivars are most rewarding for hobbyists, both because their
interesting flavour and great heat and because of their many different
shapes and hues. As tropical plants, the chinense cultivars
like hot, humid climate, but they can adapt to a drier environment
remarkably well.
Tamil ney milagai [நெய் மிலகாய்]
The fiery Sri Lankan nai-miris [නයිමිරිස්]
Superhot Assamese naga jolokia [নাগা জলকীয়া]
The superhot Manipuri umorok [উমোরোক, ꯎꯃꯣꯔꯣꯛ] may bear orange or brown pods.
The hot akabare khorsani [अकबरे खोर्सानी] chile from Nepal
Tamil ney milagai [நெய் மிலகாய்]
The fiery Sri Lankan nai-miris [නයිමිරිස්]
Up to the begin of the 21.st century, chile literature had little to say about
chinense cultivars in Asia; only a few examples from the Philippines
were mentioned, where Central American plants are rather likely to show up due
to contact with Spanish colonies in America.
Till the year 2000, I had not heard of a single chinense species being grown
in Thailand, Indonesia or India, although the climate would certainly be
suitable, and it can be assumed that the pods would suite the local tastes.
The Pakistani Dundicut chile, which figures prominently in Balti cooking, is
often reported to be a chinense, but it is in truth a
C. annuum.
Yet the recent discovery of the super-hot naga jolokia from Assam has changed this
picture profoundly. So I was not too amazed when I found a red and rather habanero-like
chinense pod on a market in the Nilgiri area of Southern India; it was locally known as
ney milagai [நெய் மிலகாய்] which appears to mean oil chile.
Also the mountain area in Sri Lanka boasts of its own chinense chile: Locally known as nayi-miris [නයිමිරිස්] snake chile,
these elongated pods are wrinkled and bent; another type, known by the same name, looks
more like a typical chinense but has unusually large pods of about 8 cm length.
The name might refer to the wrinkled pods (looking like a coiled snake), yet more plausibly the snake poison stands
metonymicaly for the high pungency of that chile cultivar. However, this does not explain the conspiciously similar names
for the two chiles described in this paragraph, and I suspect some folk etymology at work here.
While these two were clearly local specialties not known country-wide, the fruits known as akabare khorsani [अकबरे खोर्सानी]
or dalle khorsani [दल्ले खोर्सानी]
are quite common in Nepal and traded in marktes throughout the country; they are red and rather smooth, without clear tip, looking more like a tiny bell pepper than an aggressively hot chile.
The pods are valued for their high pungency and their good flavour, but they are not used for specific recipes; rather, they are eaten fresh or pickled in brine.
The most interesting of all the South Asian chinensia, however, is one commonly known as
naga jolokia, which was first reported from North East India, although it is now known that the
chile speads well into Bangladesh and Burma. There are many different names for this chile in the various tongues of
that region, but it is not clear whether each name should be considered as a distinct cultivar; the pods look rather
uniform across the entire area. As an exception, there are chocolate brown pods in Manipur, but even the Manipuri
do not consider the brown type as a separate cultivar.
Finding more chinense cultivars in South Asia
should not come as a big surprise. While, however, Latin American cuisines
typically use specific chiles for specific recipes, Asian cooks tend to use
chiles more indiscriminately, achieving flavour effects by the use of other spices.
Thus, chiles tend to play a less outstanding rôle in the cuisines of South Asia, and the foods do not owe their character
to a particular type of chile (if an exception to that statement is sought, Manipuri cuisine could be mentioned).
A more detailled discussion of the usage of chiles in India is given below,
with a separate description of the use of chinense species.
Many C. chinense species are considerably hotter than chiles
from any other species — the official world record was subsequently
ceded from the habanero (300000) to the red savina (650000) and in the 21.th century to the naga jolokia (1000000).
Currently, the title resides with the Trinidad Moruga Scorpion, which was measured in the beginning of 2012 at an unbelievable 2 Megascoville.
In contrast, no non-chinense has ever be tested hotter than 150000 Scoville heat units, and ratings above 100000 are all spurious.
It is less known that there are also comparatively mild chinense cultivars
e. g., ají panca and the rocotillo.
An ornamental habanero breed called Chocolate Brown
Nigerian Ose utoro flowers and unripe fruits.
Note the large number of flowers per node.
Nigerian Ose utoro plant with fruits
Unknown chinense species (Congo pepper?)
Red Mushroom, a habanero-type ornamental
In the past few years, many ornamental
chinense cultivars have been introduced to the market, and for
most of them, the heat has not yet been seriously detected, e. g.,
Neon Yellow, White Habanero, Chocolate or the
several mushroom
types. Since these varieties have been bred with emphasis on their decorative
value, many of them have but poor heat and/or flavour.
Yet there is an exception: The Chocolate-types, which are a group of
closely related varieties native to the Caribbean. Some of them, e. g.,
Chocolate Brown or Bahama Chocolate, have an
excellent flavour and an aggressive heat. Very recently, some Chocolates
have been subjected to HPLC and yielded spectacular Scoville ratings (400000
to 500000 SHU), which makes the Chocolate Habaneros some of
the hottest chiles ever tested.
Adjuma (falsely Ají Umba) from Suriname
Unripe scarlet lantern fruits
Adjuma (falsely Ají Umba) from Suriname
Another chile of then habanero group that has fine fruit quality despite its
ornamental look is the Peruvian Scarlet Lantern, which I found not so
hot but very flavourful. There is also a new chinense breed
designed to please not the eye but the palate only: Habanero Francisca.
The breeders describe that chile as blisteringly hot. I don’t have
any experience with this one, though.
Also C. chinense is a long-cultivated species (archaeologists
have found a 6500 years old pod in Perú); consequently,
human breeding has resulted in many different fruit colours (orange,
red, brown) and shapes (more or less isometric lantern and squash shapes
are most common, but there are also elongated and pointed cultivars).
The flowers are small, greenish or white with purple or blue anthers; a
single node regularly bears several flowers and even fruits, which is rare
with other chiles (except C. frutescens, which is very
difficult to separate by morphologic means only). A feature suited to identify
C. chinense is an annular constriction on the calyx near
the base, which almost all chinense cultivars have in common,
but which is rarely found with C. annuum
or C. frutescens.
Of the Caribbean
varieties, several (especially the habanero from
Yucatán) are traded in the US in fresh form; in Europe, they are
much less common, although the situation has improved in recent years.
Scotch bonnet type chiles may now be bought in most major European
cities, either in Delicatessen shops or in Asian or African food stores.
Irrespective of the exact botanical identity, all such chiles are very
hot and exhibit the typical delicious, flower-like scent that makes eating
them a unique experience.
Gambia from West Africa
Fresh habaneros
A particular application of chinense chiles is the production
of hot sauces. Chinense-based sauces benefit both from the
high pungency and from the floral flavour, which make them, in the opinion of
many chile connoisseurs, superior to sauces made from other chile cultivars.
A typical hot chile sauce is prepared from ground chiles, vegetables
(tomatoes, carrots), salt, sugar, acidifiers (vinegar or better
lime juice) and often additional flavourings like
onion or garlic. Even
when using very hot chiles, the heat value of the finished sauce rarely exceeds
10000 – 15000 Scoville heat units. Much higher, almost insane,
heat can be achieved using chile extracts or oleoresins instead of chile
mash; such extract sauces may be very hot
indeed, even hotter than pure chiles! The hottest products available boast of
several hundred thousand Scoville heat units. Yet purists often complain that
extract sauces lack much flavour and may even taste artificial when compared
to the milder but more aromatic all natural sauces.
The extreme heat of the chinense cultivars is of importance
in Caribbean cookery; it is commonly associated with the cuisine of Jamaica,
where local chiles bear names like seven pot pepper — probably
to indicate that one pod is enough to flavour seven pots of food. Jerk
paste, a famous spice mixture from Jamaica, makes use of these powerful chiles
(see allspice). In most parts of México,
habanero-type chiles are not so common; but they play
an important rôle in the Mayan cuisine of Yucatán. They are
often slightly crushed and steeped in sauces to extract their flavour,
but not their pungency. See annatto for an example
of habaneros used in a Mayan spice mixture, recado.
The Latin American specialty
ceviche, raw fish marinated in
lime juice and spices, is prepared with rather
mild jalapeño chiles in México, but in
Perú, it is made either with powerful ají limo
or with milder but still potent ají amarillo
(C. baccatum) chiles.
The last and culinarily probably least important chile species is
Capsicum frutescens, whose best-known cultivar is the
South Mexican Tabasco chile. Other frutescens
cultivars are spread over the Americas, Eurasia, Africa and the Pacific, but
these chiles mostly play a minor rôle in local cuisines.
A Brazilian variety called malagueta or melegueta is believed to be the wild form of this species.
The malagueta chile must not be confused with the so-called
melegueta pepper, which is just another name for
grains of paradise.
Similar to the closely related species C. chinense and
C. annuum, the cultivation
site for C. frutescens is probably Southern Mesoamerica.
Yet, the species still shows many attributes of a wild form: Its fruits
are small and not fleshy, there is no variation in pod shape, and lastly
the fruits drop off easily, to allow dispersal by birds.
Common features of all frutescens cultivars are
their green flowers and their steeply upwards directed pedicles; also
the small and pointed fruits keep their upright position until maturity.
Yet, wild chinense
species may look extremely similar, and considering only the fruit shape
and fruit position, the so-called piquin types of
C. annuum could also easily
be misidentified as frutescens varieties. All
frutescens cultivars are very hot, ranging typically from
100000 to 150000 Scoville units, occasionally even more. There are published
Scoville ratings for the Tabasco that come close to 190000, which is the
highest value I’ve ever seen for any chile that does not belong to the
chinense group.
On the Indian subcontinent, I found only two clear-cut cases of frutescens cultivars:
The kanthari [കാന്താരി]
growing in tropical Kerala state and the
Kochi miris [කොච්චි මිරිස්]
from the Hill Country of Sri Lanka where similar climate prevails. Since Kochi [കൊച്ചി] is the name of the capital of
Kerala, I suspect tha these two cultivars are identical.
The Tezpur chile or naga jolokia from Assam/India, which has
earned much fame since August 2000, was originally claimed to be a
frutescens cultivar, although it is now firmly established that
it is in fact a chinense
and that it is indeed hotter than any other known chile.
Interestingly, the few cultivars of C. frutescens have never played an
important rôle in the kitchen, as they are pungent but have hardly
any flavour. They are usually eaten, raw or pickled, as a condiment with the food, or sometimes shortly fried.
The Tabasco chile may seem an exception to this rule, but
remember that the unique aroma of Tabasco sauce mainly stems from the
long ripening period in wooden barrels, not from the underlying chile
material. Hot sauces prepared from chinense
chiles are typically more aromatic than Tabasco sauce, although they lack the typical fermented tones of the latter.
Fresh unripe Thai chiles (prik ki nu [พริกขี้หนู]); although fairly hot, this cultivar belongs to C. annuum botanically.
In tropical climate, chiles are available ripe in any time of the year.
Therefore, in the cuisines of tropical South East Asia, they are much preferred
fresh. In Thailand, curry pastes (prik kaeng or
prik gaeng [พริกแกง])
are ground mixtures of chiles with other fresh spices (e. g., lemon grass,
galanga, fingerroot,
kaffir lime leaves); see
coconut for details. Many Thai recipes
testify to the intense relation between Thai cuisine and chiles; yet
despite its often searing heat, Thai food is also aromatic due to
fresh spices and a host of fragrant herbs. Examples are
gai pad krapao [ไก่ผัดกะเพรา],
stir-fried chicken with chiles and basil,
and laab [ลาบ],
(see mint), a Northern Thai salad
that owes its fiery pungency to dried red chiles.
Chile-based table condiments are almost ubiquitous in Thailand. Most tables,
even in small, cheap restaurants or private households, are equipped with
a set of flavourings known in Thai as
kruang prung [เครื่องปรุง],
often rendered in English as four flavours although the number might
be larger than four. The minimum set includes white crystallized sugar,
prik nam pla [พริกน้ำปลา]
(fish sauce with finely chopped green chiles),
prik dong [พริกดอง] or
prik nam som [พริกน้ำส้ม]
(chopped red chiles in vinegar) and
prik phong [พริกผง] (red chile powder).
The idea behind this selection
is that the condiments should allow individual balancing of the four basic
flavours in Thai cuisine, i. e., sweet, salty, sour and hot. The surprising
thing is that the salty and sour condiments are also pretty hot, at least for
European standards. Often, the set of condiments is expanded by toasted peanuts,
prik siyu wan [พริกซีอิ๊วหวาน] (chopped chiles in soy sauce) or a more
sophisticated sauce known as
nam prik pao [น้ำพริกเผา] (fried chile sauce).
The latter can
be used both as a table condiment and for cooking; it is prepared from
fried onions, garlic,
chiles, pungent fish flavours and
palm sugar. It is fiery hot, but because of the
high proportion of oil, it does not taste as biting as other Thai condiments.
In Indonesia, cooking is very heterogeneous. Only in some regions, chiles are
used liberally, though much less so than in Thailand: Western Sumatra
(nasi padang, see also
greater galangale), Bali (see
Indonesian bay leaf and
lesser galangale for an example of an Indonesian
spice paste containing chiles)
and North Sulawesi (cooking traditions of the minahasa people)
are especially worth noting; see also lemon grass
for a general discussion of Indonesian spice pastes. Rujak is
an Indonesian fruit salad prepared with sweet palm
sugar and fiery chiles; to me, this is an unforgettable culinary impression
(see mango for details).
Anywhere in Indonesia, sambal, a red hot chile sauce,
is provided at the table to adjust
hotness level to one’s personal taste. Sambal may consist simply of mashed,
salted chiles sambal ulek (spelt sambal oelek
in the old Colonial Dutch spelling), but may also be fried or enhanced
with trassi, the ubiquitous shrimp paste, or nuts or other
spices; a popular recipe is sambal bajak. In Western
Jawa, a variety of sambal is served with paracress
leaves, which results in a tickling, exotic pungency. Sambal ulek
is not a pure table condiment, but may also be used for cooking (e. g., for
fried rice nasi goreng), although I found such use more
often mentioned in Western cookbooks than I observed it actually happen
in Indonesia.
Most Chinese cooking styles, as a rule of thumb, avoid too much spiciness;
especially Southern Chinese (Cantonese) recipes, which are most frequently
found in Chinese restaurants outside China, seem to abhor chiles at all,
although they are sometimes served as a table condiment in the form of
hot sauces and dips; la jiao jiang [辣椒酱] hot pepper sauce
is similar to Indonesian sambal ulek, but also
contains vegetable oil.
Chinese tientsin chiles are an important ingredient for Sichuan cooking.
In Central China (Sichuan [四川] and the more Eastern Hunan province [湖南]), however,
chiles and garlic are very popular and used in
astonishing amounts. Dried red chiles are often fried in hot oil until dark
brown, the oil (usually after removal of the chiles) then being used to
prepare stir-fries. A very typical example of such food is
la zi ji ding [辣子鸡丁],
chopped marinated chicken which is stir-fried in chile-flavoured oil. The
recipe uses about 20 g of dried red chiles per 100 g of chicken
meat; moreover, the browned chiles are not removed but left to serve,
although not eaten. Sprinkling toasted ground Sichuan pepper
over the finished stir-fry adds a different flavour to the already very spicy dish
(ma la zi ji ding [麻辣子鸡丁]).
See also ginger for another example of a chile-laden
Chinese recipe.
The most common grade of Chinese chiles, also used in Sichuan, is mostly known
as la jiao [辣椒] hot pepper in
China, but in the USA often termed tien tsin. That name
appears to relate to the North Eastern Chinese province Tianjin [天津]
where chiles are both grown and shipped to Transpacific destinations.
A related variety is the Yidu chile (yidu lajiao [益都辣椒]).
Native Western Chinese chile cultivars are the facing heaven chilechao tian jiao [朝天椒],
a short, slim and pretty hot chile,
and seven star chileqi xing jiao [七星椒],
a milder, very flavourful chile that grows in clusters of typically seven pods.
Chiles from Yunnan province [云南, 雲南] have a hotter reputation than the Sichuan varieties.
All these Chinese chiles, even the cheap la jiao grade, are
well suited for the dark frying described in the above; good quality
chiles have an intensive colour and can be used to prepare a chile oil of deep
red hue, either based on bland vegetable oil or on dark Chinese
sesame oil. In either case, the crushed chile is
mixed with warm, not hot, oil and macerated for a few weeks. This chile oil
(hong you [红油] red oil)
is a perfect last-minute condiment; it is applied dropwise before serving or
individually at the table; an example is the popular appetizer
hongyou chaoshou [红油抄手],
which contains of steamed dumplings (Cantonese wonton [雲吞], Mandarin hundun [餛飩]) served
with a tasty liquid made of soy sauce, stock, sugar and star anise and a thick layer of red chile oil.
Another method of applying chiles is the usage of hot bean paste known
as doubanjiang [豆瓣酱],
a fiery paste prepared from chiles, garlic, fava beans (broad beans)
and soy beans by fermentation; it is most typical for Sichuan cookery.
When fried in hot oil, it releases both a full-bodied, pungent flavour
and an intense red–orange colour (see Sichuan pepper on that technique). Doubanjiang is a
cooking ingredient and not suited for being eaten raw; thus, it must not
be confused chile-based table condiments in the manner of Indonesian
sambal ulek or Chinese
la jiao jiang [辣椒酱].
A well-known example of Sichuan cookery is mapo doufu [麻婆豆腐],
spicy minced pork with bean cheese. For this dish, the pork is stir-fried
together with doubanjiang and
garlic and then combined with mild, soft bean
cheese. Fermented black beans
(dou chi [豆豉]),
toasted Sichuan pepper pods, and a hint
of sesame oil provide additional flavour.
Another type of Sichuan foods are yuxiang dishes. The term
yu-xiang [鱼香]
literally means fish spice or fish flavour (also rendered as
fish-fragrant); it denotes a dark and pleasantly spicy sauce made from
fried dried chiles or chile soybean paste (doubanjiang), soy
sauce, garlic, ginger
and other spices which acquires a distinctly sweet–sour taste by some sugar and
rice vinegar added. See also ginger and
orange for other Sichuan foods.
Chinese hotpot (huo guo [火锅] fire-pot,
referred to as steamboat in Singapore and sometimes called Chinese fondue in the West) is a delicious
way of enjoying Chinese food and is often suspected to have
originated from Mongolian communal eating traditions. A large pot of boiling liquid
is placed in the middle of the table, and each diner cooks selected morsels
(vegetables, dumplings, sliced meats or seafood) in the broth according to
personal taste. The cooking medium is usually just a mild stock
prepared from meat, but the Sichuan version
(si chuan huo guo [四川火锅])
alters the design by providing two different broths with complimentary
flavouring: A mild one (bai tang lu [白汤鹵] white stock)
made from various meats and flavoured with ginger,
scallions and sometimes dries seagrass, and a
beef-based hot broth (hong tang lu [红汤鹵] red stock)
that has a pungent hot–and–numbing (ma la [麻辣])
flavouring due to fermented soy beans, dried chiles, doubanjiang
and Sichuan pepper. This double-flavoured version
of hotpot is particularly common around Chongqing [重庆]
in Eastern Sichuan.
In Hunan, the food is no less spicy than in Sichuan, although the cooking style
is markedly distinct. Chile is mostly used dried, also coarsely ground, or even
in fresh state. Chile oil and doubanjiang are not so common,
although the cuisine uses a large variety of other fermented soy products.
Foods are often heavily spices with chiles and garlic;
fresh herbs (coriander, perilla)
are another characteristic trait. There is a marked preference for acidic flavours, but less so for sweet or
sweet–sour. Smoked meats are a signature flavour of Hunan cuisine.
Although Vietnamese food is only moderately spiced, chiles are always available
as optional additives at the table, either fresh or in fish sauce (nuoc mam [nước mắm]),
similar to Thai custom. See, for example, lemon grass
for the Vietnamese hotpot, which is eaten with spicy dips and the ubiquitous
fresh herbs. This applies mostly to the South; in North Vietnam,
garlic replaces chiles as condiment.
In Japan, chile (tōgarashi [唐辛子, とうがらし])
plays only a minor rôle; it is less used than in
probably any other Asian country. It is almost never employed for cooking,
but table condiments containing chiles are served to specific kinds of food.
For example, dried chiles, either alone or in mixture with other spices
(shichimi togarashi, see Sichuan
pepper), are popular for spicing up soups. Another table condiment is
momiji-oroshi [紅葉 下ろし, もみじ おろし],
a mixture of radish (daikon [大根, だいこん])
and small amounts of
red chiles, which are grated together to a fine paste. This preparation is
canonical for a few dishes, for example sashimi made from
the infamous fugu puffer fish [河豚, ふぐ], which contains a dangerous neurotoxin
named tetrodotoxin (see wasabi for other, less
exotic, types of sashimi), and for certain soups and hot-pots.
On the bottom of the line, it
appears that chile hotness is more or less incompatible with the subtle
flavours on which Japanese cuisine in general depends (see also
perilla).
Korean clay pots used to produce various fermented vegetable products, e. g., kim chi
In neighbouring Korea, though, chiles are much loved.
They are either used fully ripe and dried (a
red powder of bright colour and full heat), or in form of a chile-flavoured hot
bean paste (kochu jang or gochu jang [고추장]).
Containing glutinous rice besides chiles and beans, gochu jang
has a smother texture and more subtle but milder flavour than its Chinese counterpart,
doubanjiang; but in the worst case, one may substitute the other for cooked foods.
Kochujang is used as a flavouring for soupy stews
(jjigae, tchigae [찌개]),
pan-fried pork slices (cheyuk pokkum [제육볶음]),
and sometimes also as a spicy dip.
Besides chiles, sesame (both in form of sesame seeds
and in form of dark sesame oil), garlic and
ginger are Korea’s most prominent flavours. Korean
cookery is, unfortunately, not much known in Europe.
The Korean term kim chi [김치] refers to pickled vegetables, which
form an important part of Korean diet. Westerners most often think of kim chi as a cabbage pickle (which, indeed, is the national dish
of Korea), but there are numerous other types. Recipes vary from household to
household: Most popular is fermented cabbage version baechu-kimchi [배추김치]
(a spicy Eastern variation of German Sauerkraut, see juniper), but other varieties derive their acidity
from vinegar or are not sour at all. Second to cabbage, radish (of the type
called daikon in Japan) is a popular vegetable for kim chi. Most types of kim chi are fairly hot
due to generous use of hot dried chiles, fresh garlic and fresh ginger;
sugar, soy sauce and, optionally, herbs or dried fish products provide
additional flavour. Kim chi is often served sprinkled with
dark sesame oil. It can also be used as basis for
a rich soup-like stew (gimchi jjigae, kimchi tchigae [김치찌개]).
Sri Lankan cuisine uses fresh green chiles, which are taken in
mind-boggling amounts for stir-fries and deep-fried lentil snacks. For curries,
dried red chiles are usually preferred; three large tablespoons for one liter
of curry is not unreasonable. Traveller, be forewarned (or attracted) by the
colour! I have found no other place in Asia where tourists that constantly
refused to eat local food than in Sri Lanka.
Tamil chile type kundu milagai vattal [குண்டு மிளகாய் வத்தல்]
Likewise, South Indian cooking is rather spicy, particularly in Andhra Pradesh, where most of India’s
chiles are grown; Andhra cuisine acquires are distinctive acidic note by liberal application of
tamarind, which is very refreshing.
A typical example is the ginger chutneyallam chatni or allam pachadi [అల్లం చట్ని, అల్లం పచ్చడి]
made from dried chiles, fresh ginger,
tamarind and spices (fenugreek seeds, garlic) and often tomatoes; it is eaten with rice or bread, or used to spice up
vegetable curries or pulses.
In neighbouring Tamil Nadus, curries are slightly milder, and often the flavourful conical variety
kundu milagai [குண்டு மிளகாய்]
is used. Dried, pointed chiles are often steeped in butter milk or joghurt with ample salt and
afterwards fried till they become dark brown; these buttermik chiles (mor vattal [மோர் வத்தல்])
are often served as a crispy and quite fiery aside to Tamil meals.
Kerala, the state in the South West, basically uses similar chiles, but it has an
additional chile that is unknown elsewhere: The
small, pointed pods are named kanthari [കാന്താരി]
and belong to the frutescens species.
It has a fiery and biting pungency and is chiefly used for spicy salads and
flavoured buttermilk
(pulisheri [പുളിശ്ശേരീ]),
while heat-loving cooks may also employ it for regular curries. A very similar chile is in use in
Sri Lanka, where it is conspiciously known as Kochi miris [කොච්චි මිරිස්];
I suspect that this really means chile from Kochi, whereby an origin from the
spice exporting Keralan city Kochi (formerly Cochin) [കൊച്ചി]
is indicated.
Dried Kashmiri chiles
The dundicut chile is the traditional hot
chile of Northern Pakistani cooking
In Northern India, as well as in Central Asia, chiles are most
often used dried, although fresh green chiles are regionally served as a fiery garnish.
They are sold whole or ground at the market and are intensively fiery,
intensively coloured and intensively aromatic; for most applications, they are
fried in fat (see ajwain), whereby the pungency
gets extracted and distributes uniformly in the food. In India, chiles from
Kashmir (in the Northwest of India) have best reputation. I have not found a
similar quality in Europe. The deep red colour (not orange as the stuff
available here in the West) is comparable to the best quality of Hungarian
sweet paprika, as is the fragrance; but the
pungency is strong and pleasant. A mixture of high-quality sweet and very hot
but less aromatic products will probably do best.
The bright red Kashmiri chile features in many recipes of that region, particularily
in the spicy pickles for which Kashmir is famous. An unusual example is the fermented
ochar [اچار]
made from leaf and root vegetables, which is close to Korean kim-chi and thus
one of the few Indian foods with a strong flavour of fermentation. Another typical Kashmiri product
is the spicy paste wary or vari [وری]
which is sometimes available by its Hindi name kashmiri masala [कश्मीरी मसाला] in Western countries.
It is a slightly oily but crumbly paste made from various ground spices that derives its red colour
from dried cockscomb inflorescences.
Spicy Kashmiri main courses include the braised meatballs rista [رستہ]
and the red mutton stew rogan josh [روغنجش];
the latter is also popular outside of Kashmir, but is then usually prepared in a milder, Moghul-influenced style.
Dried and smoked Naga chile
Fresh Khasi chiles (soh mynken rakut)
Naga-Chile, dried and smoked
On the Indian subcontinent, some varieties of C. chinense are known;
yet they play their part mostly not in Indian cuisine, but in the cooking styles of minority peoples. Most
famous of these chiles is the naga jolokia from the North East. The Nagas, a Christian
people inhabiting the border region between India und Burma, use it widely for pickles and spicy pastes;
it may be employed fresh, dried or even smoked (which is quite unique in Asia). Naga food may be
intensively spiced or almost bland, but it is usually served together with fiery condiments to adjust
the heat level individually; this practise reminds more to South East Asia than to India. Other spices
than chile, garlic and ginger are rarely used.
A neighbouring hill people, the Meitei or Manipuri, have particularly strong culinary traditions associated with that chile,
which is known as umorok [উমোরোক, ꯎꯃꯣꯔꯣꯛ] tree chile
in the Manipuri language. It is employed fresh and raw for adding a fiery touch to salads and is popular
in combination with fermented flavours as are very common in Manipuri cooking; the latter might stem from fermented
soybeans (havaijar [হৱাইজার, ꯍꯋꯥꯢꯖꯥꯔ])
or fish ripened in earthenware jars (ngari [ঙারি, ꯉꯥꯔꯤ]).
More rarely, umorok is cooked, for example in iromba [ইরোমবা, ꯏꯔꯣꯝꯕꯥ],
a soupy or dry vegetable curry flavoured with fermented fish.
Out of the short season, dried or smoked umorok is used; fresh umorok
tastes best in November, and starting with January both quantity and quality decline drastically.
See also chameleon plant for another Manipuri food that may contain umorok.
The Khasi, another people of the North Eastern area, also employ this hottest chile of the world. For example,
it is found in tungtap, a hot paste made from dried fish, onion and
chile; this condiment has a somewhat South-East Asian character and is often served with the national food
jadoh, a rice dish with pork meat that featured an intensive lard flavour. Quite aptly,
that particular chile is named sohmynken rakut in the Khasi tongue, which means
monster chile (another common name for it is soh mynken bep).
Nepalese chiles pickled in brine (akabare achar [अकबरे अचार])
The Nepali akabare khorsani [अकबरे खोर्सानी] chile
Yet another chinense chile is found in Nepal: This type, localy known as akabare khorsani, is most typical of the hill regions in medum elevation which are populated by a number of hill tribes including the Rai and the Limbu. It is rarely used for cooking, but rather eaten raw or pickled in brine. The latter form is quite efficient in conserving the specific flavour, and during ageing it acquires a scent somewhat compareable to olives, hinting at a lactic fermentation process going on.
A third chinense is the nayi-miris [නයිමිරිස්]
of Sri Lanka, which is largely confined to the central highland region. It is usually not cooked but eaten raw, and occasionally used for the fiery condiment
katta sambol [කට්ට සම්බෝල්]
or lunumiris [ලුණු මිරිස්], a paste from raw
chiles and onion, although this usage is not standard. Unlike the two previous examples, the nayi-miris is not a tribal ingredient but
used by the Sinhalese majority population, if only in the highlands. The strong affection of the Sinhalese to chiles is marked by the fact that
the same area also boasts of another exotic chile, the
Kochi miris [කොච්චි මිරිස්],
which is a frutescens and commonly grown in household gardens. The Sri Lankan Hill Country, thus,seems to be unique in South Asia by the presence of three
different chile species.
Not surprisingly, chiles appear in many spice mixtures from all of Asia: Indian
sambar podi (see coriander) and some versions of garam masala
(see cumin) and most if not all of the baghar
and tarka preparations (see onion and ajwain, repsectively).
Chiles also determine the character of curry powders (see curry leaves), their Ethiopian pendent berbere (see long pepper) and
Arabic mixtures (baharat, see paprika and zhoug, see coriander). Far Eastern examples include Japanese shichimi togarashi (see Sichuan
pepper) and the former mentioned Thai curry pastes (see coconut). For Mexican mole
sauces, see paprika.
Suryamukhi cluster [सूर्यमुखी] chile from India
Bhutanese chiles (length ca. 8 cm)
Other spice preparations are made entirely or
at least dominantly of chiles. Besides the formerly mentioned Far Eastern chile
condiments (sambal ulek), one must mention their Srilankan
counterparts, also named sambol. A common preparation is
katta sambol [කට්ට සම්බෝල්, கட்ட சம்பல்],
a runny paste of freshly ground chiles and onion. This is often confused with an entirely different Sri Lankan chile-based condiment,
Sinhala umbalakada sambol [උම්බලකඩ සම්බෝල්]
or Tamil masis sambal [மாசிச் சம்பல்],
which consists of dried chile, dried Maldive fish and some other flavourings, in particular curry leaves.
Other chile-based table condiments are US American hot pepper sauces (more correct
hot chile sauces), which typically contain vinegar or
lemon juice, garlic,
salt and chiles; see also long coriander about the Méxican parent sauce family,
salsa). An example from Arab cooking is Tunisian
harissa [هريسة],
a fiery paste of dried red chiles, garlic,
cumin (or caraway),
coriander, olive
oil and sometimes a hint of peppermint. It
is often served as a table condiment for cous-cous [كوسكوس, كسكسى],
the national food of the Atlas countries which consists of steamed semolina
served with a large number of side dishes. Similar condiments from the Eastern Mediterranean
are zhough [زوق]
and shatta [شطة]
(see coriander).
Bhutanese chiles (length ca. 8 cm)
There seems to be a positive correlation between environment temperature and
chile consumption — generally, chiles are more popular in hot climates.
There is, though, a remarkable exception to that climate rule: Tibet
(much of an exception in many respects, I guess).
Tibetan food is mildly seasoned, but fiery chile condiments are always found
on the tables; a most typical recipe is churu sibeh [ཆུ་རམ་སི་པན་], chiles
mixed with pungent mold-ripened blue cheese. Since it is difficult to grow ripe
chiles at altitudes above 3500 m, Tibetans often use unripe
green chiles, which lack aroma, but not fiery hotness. The same combination
of cheese and chiles is found in neighbouring Bhutan: The national dish,
himadatse [ཧི་མ་ཞད་ཚེ་]
(also romanized as ema datshe or hemadatsi)
is a thick soup of cheese and chiles; although recipe details vary, the cheese might be a rather
fresh cow cheese or an aged and ripened variety; and the chiles might be fresh and green, but also large,
dried chiles with good flavour are used. In any case, the food is spicy and rather unusual.
Most European
countries do not use chiles for their traditional dishes; only the
Mediterranean states and Hungary have much of a chile tradition, though food is
rarely really fiery even in these countries. Consequently, there are only
few particular chile cultivars in Europe: A good example is the fiery
Piripíri, a Portuguese variety sold almost exclusively
in pickled form (often termed piri-piri).
Other hot chiles are mostly used dried, e. g., the
piment d’espelette from Pays Basque in France
(in Basque language ezpeletako biperra),
or the South Italian peperoncino.
One should also mention the so-called Hungarian cherry pepper,
a remarkable compromise between nice pungency and very good flavour.
This and other milder varieties are discussed under
paprika.
In Central and North Europe, chiles are generally regarded
as food spoilers, and traditionally people do not spend their time for growing
or eating them. Things have changed, however, and chile gardening is now
a fairly widespread hobby in Germany and probably other countries as well.
The trend is, of course, imported from the USA, where growing chiles has
become a national sport in the early nineties, particularly in the South and
the West (and most in the Southwest, of course). Maybe, the increased
availability of special, chiles with exciting flavour profile will revolutionize the taste
preference in Europe as it already did in the USA.